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I want to slightly round off a couple of edges

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Old 07-31-2016, 06:57 PM   #1
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I want to slightly round off a couple of edges

I have a P229 SAS Gen 2 in .40S&W. Not matter what grease I use, the slide has continued to cut through the hard anodized layer on the underside of my frame's rails over several inches; not just the one inch the P229 40s typically do. But it is just in the corner of the frame's rails. Very narrow.

I would like to put just a tiny bit of roundness (barely enough to see) on the edge of the slide that contacts that that upper corner of the frame's slide rails.

What would be best to do that, keep it consistent along the length of the slide, and oh-so-gently round off that edge. I mean I just want to "kiss" the edge with something that will take the sharpness of that edge so that it no longer cuts into the corner of the frame's rail.

I hope I explained that well.

If I do this, I believe that the interaction of the slide with the frame will be perfect and minimize wear for the life of the gun.

Thanks!
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Old 08-01-2016, 01:02 AM   #2
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I wonder if using some rubbing compound like They used to use on Auto paint back when
lacquer was used to paint cars would work.
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Old 08-01-2016, 05:51 AM   #3
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GBIA, can you post a picture of the area in question on the frame? I think I know where you are talking about, but not 100%.
If it's where I'm thinking, I would suspect a machining burr in the slide groove. Using a knife edge sharpening stone, lightly bevel the edge.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:23 AM   #4
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I don't believe you are going through the anodize. You may be removing the colorant of the anodize, but I would be willing to bet there is still anodize present where the color is gone. I wouldn't worry about it, grease it and forget it.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willard View Post
GBIA, can you post a picture of the area in question on the frame? I think I know where you are talking about, but not 100%.
If it's where I'm thinking, I would suspect a machining burr in the slide groove. Using a knife edge sharpening stone, lightly bevel the edge.
Will try to when I get home from the office. I'm in a lot of pain and I haven't cleaned it; and I don't plan to until the weekend.

I would have noticed a burr during cleaning. Especially since I use Q-tips frequently during the cleaning process and did so again when I changed grease before yesterday's shoot. But it could very well have an irregularity to the edge on the slide - say, a high spot - that doesn't snag a Q-tip but produces excess pressure in the very crevice of the frame's slide rail. When I clean it this weekend (assuming I'm able), I am going to try SlideGlide Heavy on it. It is a pretty tight-fitting slide, though.
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:51 AM   #6
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You can use an ohm meter to determine if the anodize layer is worn through - the aluminum oxide anodize layer is an insulator and won't conduct.

You can use an extra fine diamond hone like this:

https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-LSF-S...=diamond+hones

They come in sets too, that are probably more cost effective and practical. I have a set of 5.
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Old 08-01-2016, 08:03 AM   #7
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+1 on the ohm meter!
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Old 08-11-2016, 10:50 PM   #8
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I would use a bench grinder with a sisal buffing wheel and use black/emery compound. Or for something a little less aggressive I would use a sewn cotton wheel and green or brown/tripoli compound.


YMMV



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Old 08-13-2016, 01:49 PM   #9
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There is complete continuity with the multimeter. So there is not anodized layer left where the rail finish is worn. It if a very fine line right in the crevice of the groove cut in the frame for the slide. There is nothing to catch a Q-tip on the slide but I did discover that the corner of the slide rail that would contact the crevice of the top side of the groove in the frame is rather sharp toward the front. It is somewhat sharp on the right and there is minor cutting through the finish on the right side of the frame. It is much sharper on the left and the left side of the frame has the longest amount of material cut off the frame. And the cut through the finish on the frame stops about where that sharp area on the slide's rail stops at full recoil.

This pistol was a replacement for a bad one that SIG replaced after I had fired only about 128 rounds through it.

I don't think it weakens the frame.

I could send it to SIG and have them look at it or I could just get a stone and gently smooth off that sharp edge on the slide and keep shooting her. This is going to be a new one added to my carry rotation.

Bummer.
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Old 08-13-2016, 01:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumper View Post
You can use an ohm meter to determine if the anodize layer is worn through - the aluminum oxide anodize layer is an insulator and won't conduct.

You can use an extra fine diamond hone like this:

https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-LSF-S...=diamond+hones

They come in sets too, that are probably more cost effective and practical. I have a set of 5.
I'm going to order this set. I don't need any of the extra course ones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBallisticInAlabama View Post
I have a P229 SAS Gen 2 in .40S&W. Not matter what grease I use, the slide has continued to cut through the hard anodized layer on the underside of my frame's rails over several inches; not just the one inch the P229 40s typically do. But it is just in the corner of the frame's rails. Very narrow.

I would like to put just a tiny bit of roundness (barely enough to see) on the edge of the slide that contacts that that upper corner of the frame's slide rails.

What would be best to do that, keep it consistent along the length of the slide, and oh-so-gently round off that edge. I mean I just want to "kiss" the edge with something that will take the sharpness of that edge so that it no longer cuts into the corner of the frame's rail.

I hope I explained that well.

If I do this, I believe that the interaction of the slide with the frame will be perfect and minimize wear for the life of the gun.

Thanks!
Hi Alabama, I wanted to add my two cents worth -

Here is a stolen picture that shows which edge needs rounding I believe.


That edge needs rounding or deburring all the way along the slide and right side of pistol and left side of pistol. Care must be taken to not scratch up the inside of the cut. Perhaps place masking tape down in the cut. A tiny file can be used to cut the sharp edge off all the way down, and then a small stone, and finish with perhaps 1000 grit wet or dry using light oil like ATF.

Again much care must be taken and a light touch to only take that sharp edge off the inside of the slide. Don't think you can get a grinding wheel down inside that tiny place.
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:47 PM   #12
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That's exactly the edge. Maybe the front two inches of it are sharp. The rest feels fine.
I can't see how having the anodized layer worn through on the matching crevice of the frame could cause any weakness in the frame. If I round that edge off, I believe that it will last a long time.

I've never done anything like this before on a gun.

I ordered this set of diamond hones to see how they work.

1200, 600 and 400 grit. May be able to use them for other things down the road.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-17-2016, 03:29 AM   #13
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Wet or dry - 600 to 1000 - used wet with light oil - wrap a small stick with the sandpaper.
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