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P220 Barrel Project....

This is a discussion on P220 Barrel Project.... within the Gun Projects forums, part of the Gun Forum category; Hi guys - I just acquired a new p220 Carry Elite SSE through a couple trades. Been looking to get one of these little gems ...


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Old 10-04-2016, 07:47 PM   #1
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Question P220 Barrel Project....

Hi guys -

I just acquired a new p220 Carry Elite SSE through a couple trades. Been looking to get one of these little gems for a while now. What a beautiful gun - can't wait to shoot it!

I just shined it up a little brighter using Mothers and some elbow muscle and I want to remove the bluing off the barrel and give it the same polished stainless steel look as the frame & slide. I've watch a few videos on youtube - most guys use vinegar to help remove the bluing and a dremel using mothers or flitz.

Has anyone done this before to a Sig barrel? what advice or things I need to watch out for or be careful with? Can I damage the barrel in anyway?

Your thoughts please.

Thank you!
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:26 PM   #2
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Is the barrel chrome lined or stainless or carbon steel.

I know that I have removed rust from steel with white vinegar, leaves the metal black and has to be washed off, might hurt the inside of the barrel.

If you have seen it on youtube and nothing bad happened I guess it would be OK.
I personally would not get anything in the barrel. The dremel with flitz, should be no problem on the outside. Dummy me, I didn't know the barrel had bluing on it.
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Old 10-06-2016, 09:58 AM   #3
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Based on your desired result, I think you will have a better look if you send the barrel in for hard-chrome.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:35 AM   #4
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Pretty sure your barrel is stainless, and so the black finish should buff right off and the surface will look as shiny as chrome. Use a rotary tool (Dremel etc) with small cotton buff and polish on a small spot on the barrel underside near the lug and see what transpires.

Here's a picture of the barrel hood on one of my P229's. Prior to doing the "engine turning" pattern, the hood was polished smooth. Engine turning is mostly cosmetic but does aid in lubrication as it tends to carry lubricant I suppose. (edit) Oh, and the ET also tends to hide the scratches you often see on Sig barrel hoods (though smoothing out the inside of the slide and lubing the spot where the hood rubs against the slide will also prevent those scratches and wear marks - especially if done when the gun is new so the wear marks don't even start

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Last edited by bumper; 10-06-2016 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Pretty sure your barrel is stainless, and so the black finish should buff right off and the surface will look as shiny as chrome. Use a rotary tool (Dremel etc) with small cotton buff and polish on a small spot on the barrel underside near the lug and see what transpires.
This was exactly the information I was looking for from someone who has already polished up a Sig barrel. I do have a dremel, mothers & flitz and soft felt polishing pads.

The "engine tuning" pattern looks awesome. Did you do that? How do you achieve that look?
Thanks
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SigPistolFan View Post
This was exactly the information I was looking for from someone who has already polished up a Sig barrel. I do have a dremel, mothers & flitz and soft felt polishing pads.

The "engine tuning" pattern looks awesome. Did you do that? How do you achieve that look?
Thanks
Yes, I did that. I've heard of several methods, but unless you are really good holding a drill freehand, all require a drill press or a mill. A mill makes it super easy as the spacing in both axis can be precise. With a drill press you'd use a rule and/or spacer, perhaps layout the pattern with DyKem etc

. I have a "hobby" machine shop at my hangar, so used the mill . Abrasive can be a small wire brush (but I've never had good luck with that), so I made my own mandrel out of brass rod with a recess cup in the end to hold a small round of leather I punched from a leather scrap. Then used coarse valve lapping compound to make the swirl patterns (fine compound works well too, but it not so resistant to wear). Plunk a dab of compound on, engage mandrel for the same amount of time (few seconds) with the same pressure (guestimate). Engine turning, with larger swirl patterns) used to be popular for hot rods etc. There are even companies that do it for a living I think. It's one of those easy to do and satisfying things (like anodizing) that has one fondling a mechanical doo-dad while watching TV! I suppose there's a name for such a sickness that has one so easily amused by something they hand crafted that turns out nice
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Last edited by bumper; 10-06-2016 at 06:44 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:07 PM   #7
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i personally like the natural color for the smileys & ejector side of the barrel to get an idea of how much it's been fired.
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:54 PM   #8
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Yes, I did that. ...
Thanks for the info. I don't have that kind of setup to attempt that.

BTW - I tried using some mothers and a dremel like you suggested on the underside of the barrel and it didn't make a difference. Still true blue.
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:51 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info. I don't have that kind of setup to attempt that.

BTW - I tried using some mothers and a dremel like you suggested on the underside of the barrel and it didn't make a difference. Still true blue.
The buffing compound you are using is too fine. You'll want something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Enkay-150-Pol...shing+compound

Couple of things to keep in mind: One company's "black" buffing compound may not be the same size grit as another. I use black for most internal steel parts on a gun, then for things that want to be really shiny, follow with red rouge. You have to keep the buffs separate so they are not contaminated with finer or courser grit. Just "color" the buff, doesn't take much, the sticks are made with a wax that contains the abrasive. when using larger wheels it's common to "dress" the wheel to remove old abrasive and clean the wheel. A old piece of band saw blade with handle words well for this but an edge tool like a scraper would work too.

It'll work, just need the right tools!
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