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Lubrication Points for P238/P938

This is a discussion on Lubrication Points for P238/P938 within the P238, P938 Pistol forums, part of the SIG Sauer Pistols category; Anything that should never be lubed?...


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P238, P938 Pistol All variations P238, P938

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Old 06-14-2016, 01:35 PM   #31
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Anything that should never be lubed?
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:21 PM   #32
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Anything that should never be lubed?
Firing pin/firing pin channel.
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Old 07-05-2016, 05:21 AM   #33
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DONT OVER LUBICATE😣
Probably the biggest problem I see in the sub compacts is too much oil. It attracts dirt, carbon and especially pocket lint.
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:19 AM   #34
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Great indication of additional places to lubricate. Is there a posting somewhere, with the normal lube points? I looked in the manual for my new P938, and there isn't too much info on where to lubricate (or maybe they are, but are assuming too much?).

in my Walther PPQ manual they point out a bunch of places to clean and lubricate.

Clean
- barrel bore
- breech face
- chamber end of barrel
- extractor and adjacent areas
- frame

Lubricate
- light film on on all external metal surfaces
- external surface of barrel and ramp, where locking block cmas the barrel
- drop of oil on
* slide guides
* three trigger bar points
* safety plunger
* disconnector cut
- magazine external surfaces

They have a drawing with arrows so it makes it kind of easy. Is there something for the P938 that is similar, for people that are not that familiar with the components?
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Old 07-09-2016, 06:25 AM   #35
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I did find this, at the Sig site:

SIG SAUER

and this:

https://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-...-pistol-rails/
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Old 12-11-2016, 05:41 PM   #36
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Just got a p938. Started to check gun over before fist use. Screws in grips look like hex but metric and inch hex wrenches don't fit. T10 torx fit ok but screw doesn't look like a torx. I only have cheap set of tools handy here. Bad tools or odd screw?
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:47 AM   #37
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AFAICT, mine are hex screws, although I have a bunch of different sizes of allen wrenches. Maybe you're just missing the right size?
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:50 AM   #38
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Mine are 3/32 hex, although as mjgioia says a T10 Torx will work.

Dave
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:28 AM   #39
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A great thread and highly informative! So I have read that some folks recommend using a grease on the slide instead of an oil. Any thoughts on this ? Thanks
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:05 AM   #40
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A great thread and highly informative! So I have read that some folks recommend using a grease on the slide instead of an oil. Any thoughts on this ? Thanks
If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, use oil.

G.
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:24 AM   #41
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I prefer grease on the slide and frame rails because it seems to stay put better than oil.
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:44 AM   #42
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I prefer grease on the slide and frame rails because it seems to stay put better than oil.
Makes good sense, so I initially used Lubriplate, and I have always liked Breakfree. So what are the long term Sig shooters favorite lube? Thanks
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Old 01-18-2017, 06:24 PM   #43
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Makes good sense, so I initially used Lubriplate, and I have always liked Breakfree. So what are the long term Sig shooters favorite lube? Thanks
Lubriplate on slide, rails and barrel muzzle end. CLP elsewhere.
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:27 AM   #44
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P238 likes lube

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Originally Posted by Blondie View Post
As a new owner, I have cleaned my P238 twice (brand new and after 1st use, even though I didn't have time to use the full 50 rounds) per the instructions that came with it. That said....

1) I have heard that the P238s can be very temperamental if not cleaned after every use. How often do you all normally perform a routine/basic cleaning on yours? (Certain number of round or after every practice?)

2) I have heard of multiple people who have stripped the grip screws. How often do you lube the internal parts under the grip?

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!
I also have noticed that the P238 likes to be lubed. Even if it was cleaned and lubed after use, I add a drop of Rem oil to each slide rail just before the next time at the range. No more FTF or failure to fully chamber a round issues. The gun is picky about what it eats though. I have seen it choke on some Winchester and some Aguila ammo.
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Old 01-27-2017, 12:21 PM   #45
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I perform a basic field strip (remove slide), clean and lube after every range trip. I remove the grip panels and clean and lube the mechanicals about every 4-500 rounds (or sooner if I'm bored).

I use a simple "L" shaped allen wrench (no driver handle) to remove/install the grip screws, and put the long end of the L in the screw and twist on the short end to torque them; this keeps me from over torquing them. Be very careful when starting the screws not to cross thread them.

Hope that helps.
I know this post is old but glad it was brought back up. Very good info ans is a good reminder. I just got a complete set of Torx L wrenches off of Ebay Goes from 10 thru 50.
Total cost $7.59
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