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Lubrication Points for P238/P938

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69K views 58 replies 33 participants last post by  NevenKC 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Since you asked

You happen to have a picture of the area you are talking about, would you? I get the "gritty" trigger sometimes too, and I'd like to see where exactly you are talking about needs the good lubing.

Thanks.


Here are my thoughts on some lube points in the P238/938 - I prefer grease (TW25b) in these area as it tends to stay put.

 

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#4 ·
Would like to clarify that these suggested lube points don't represent a complete list of lube points for the P238/938. They were mentioned because accessing these points (except for the upper ejector) requires removal of the left grip panel and may be overlooked by some in their maintenance routine.
 
#8 ·
Newbie questions



As a new owner, I have cleaned my P238 twice (brand new and after 1st use, even though I didn't have time to use the full 50 rounds) per the instructions that came with it. That said....

1) I have heard that the P238s can be very temperamental if not cleaned after every use. How often do you all normally perform a routine/basic cleaning on yours? (Certain number of round or after every practice?)

2) I have heard of multiple people who have stripped the grip screws. How often do you lube the internal parts under the grip?

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!
 
#9 ·
I perform a basic field strip (remove slide), clean and lube after every range trip. I remove the grip panels and clean and lube the mechanicals about every 4-500 rounds (or sooner if I'm bored).

I use a simple "L" shaped allen wrench (no driver handle) to remove/install the grip screws, and put the long end of the L in the screw and twist on the short end to torque them; this keeps me from over torquing them. Be very careful when starting the screws not to cross thread them.

Hope that helps.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Very helpful, ThnkFrst! Thank you.
(Although, if I am going to be removing the left grip, I will be very tempted to just go ahead and switch grips each time. lol. What a very expensive hobby this is. :-D )
 
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#11 ·
I posted the the following suggestion in another thread, titled "Easy way to lube the sear", and folks seem to like the idea. This sticky thread seems to be an appropriate place for it to reside, so here it is (again):

Maybe everyone else here knows this, but I just recently discovered it. With the slide off the frame, and the hammer cocked, the half-cock hammer notch is easily accessible, and lube can be applied to it.

Then, with the slide back on the frame, repeatedly position the hammer between its half-cock and full-cock notches. That'll transfer lube to the sear notch and hammer full-cock notch.
 
#18 ·
I wouldn't have known about these oil points with out this sticky, which may well have caused problems down the road a ways .. are these oil points also explained in the manual .. I haven't received my P238 yet so manual yet to look at .

Are there any other points that a new P238 owner should know about that may not be explained in the manual ?
 
#19 ·
As a new shooter and a new owner of a 238 I called Sig to ask about where to lube beyond what the owner's manual and many videos show. I asked about the trigger area and the area of the hammer. I was told that there is a kind of permanent grease in these areas and there is no need to go there. I do wonder how permanent that grease is. I do clean and lube after each session regardless of how many rounds I go through.
 
#21 · (Edited)
As a new shooter and a new owner of a 238 I called Sig to ask about where to lube beyond what the owner's manual and many videos show. I asked about the trigger area and the area of the hammer. I was told that there is a kind of permanent grease in these areas and there is no need to go there. I do wonder how permanent that grease is. I do clean and lube after each session regardless of how many rounds I go through.
This wouldn't be the first time that I've said something here that is counter to SIG's position on the point…and might not be the last.

All the SIG manuals that I've viewed limit the disassembly/cleaning/lubrication to "field strip" only and this is true of the P238/938 as well. It's just my opinion (and nothing more) that the mechanicals that are housed behind the grip panels deserve equal treatment to those that are accessible with the slide removed. They get dirty and dry and can affect pistol function just like everything else.

It's not that SIG doesn't believe this to be true. They offer service packages to perform this work for a price and recommend that it be performed annually IIRC. And that's good because it needs to be done, especially if the firearm is employed in a SD role.

It's just a matter of personal philosophy, and mine is "my defense, my firearm, my responsibility". With some effort/study, minimal equipment and proper execution, I'm confident that I can perform these maintenance functions in the comfort of my home at less expense and get more satisfaction than sending it off to SSI.

But in the end, I'm just another guy with a gun on a forum talking about what works for him. Really, that's all.
 
#23 ·
Not sure if this matters but thought I would say something in case it did ..

I noticed last night when I lubed my new P238 that in the above picture the bar that is labeled 7. disconnector to frame and 8. disconnector to trigger bar is solid and doesn't have holes in it as the picture shows ..

Don't know if the picture shows a change or mine has a newer style disconnector since the date of the weapon in the picture is unknown to me ..

The Born on Date for my P-238 is Nov 2014 even though it is new off the shelf ..
 
#48 ·
I just got a new P238 HD Nickel. It has a manufacture date of Oct 26, 2016. It is just as you described. I already shot 150 rounds through it (with no issues) before I lubed the points noted in this thread, other than points 7 and 8.

Just pulled it apart and lubed up the points I could. Got a pic while the grip panel was off:




 
#26 · (Edited)
Dave R .. very interesting and really doesn't look like its very difficult to do .. Thought since it says you have to send it back to Sig if the ejector gets pushed down to far it was a major endeavor to correct ..

Thank you for this video by Melody Lauer .. Video on how to fix the ejector if it is pushed too far down .. no need to send back to Sig



Maybe it needs to be made into a Sticky .. How do you nominate a post for a sticky ?
 
#27 ·
whitewabit, I think this thread is already a sticky. This can just be part of it.

Hope you never need to do this but if you do and you have large hands, a small table top vice will come in handy. I've done it with and without a vice and prefer the vice.

Also, the Colt Mustang sear spring puts a bit less pressure on the ejector than the Sig sear spring does so as long as you're careful you'd probably have to push pretty hard on the ejector to get the Sig to over extend.

Dave
 
#28 ·
And one more thing...don't skimp on the lube.

There is a lot of metal on metal contact with SIGS and that requires generous lube to continue functioning well.

My recommendation is a good gun great, my favorite is WeaponShield's grease.

Applyl well the underside of the frame rails where the natural recoil impulse of the gun will cause the slide rails to rub particularly hard against the underside of the frame rail.
 
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#29 ·
Thanks for all the info on this thread. Being a new owner of a p238 I'm finding all of this info very helpful. I have been cleaning after each visit to the range. Is it enough to just put a few drops of oil on the slide or should I be applying grease. I've put through about 300 rounds with no issues.
 
#30 ·
So, after a fun session at the range today, I extensively cleaned and lubed my (newish) P938..... only to find this thread showing me about 3 places that I missed!
Thanks, for this informative thread. OK, grip panels coming off now.
 
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