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938 grip screw stripping?

This is a discussion on 938 grip screw stripping? within the P238, P938 Pistol forums, part of the SIG Sauer Pistols category; Originally Posted by samuriboy FYI, There are two screw sizes for the 938's. If your 938 came with the wood grips the screws are a ...


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P238, P938 Pistol All variations P238, P938

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Old 12-23-2016, 05:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by samuriboy View Post
FYI,
There are two screw sizes for the 938's. If your 938 came with the wood grips the screws are a tad bit longer. I found this out when I bought some used rubber grips from a member either here or on another forum. If you go to Hogues website and go to the description for the rubber grips, there is a note that states the sizes of the screws. Below is the Quote:

Please note: SIG Sauer supplies 2 different screw lengths for the 938, depending on the factory grips sold with the gun. Laminate wood grips have 0.188" screws. Rubber, G10, and Polymer grips have 0.155" screws.

Hogue G10 and Rubber grips only work with the 0.155" grip screws. A new set will need to be purchased if your firearm came with the laminate wood grips.

I tried the screws that were used for my wood grips and they were to long. I tried to insert a mag and it would not go in. Looking into the mag well I can see the screws sticking out into the mag well. My OEM grip screws came with "RED" loctite on them and they never came loose since I had the gun. I have taken them off more than a dozen times to get into the magwell to clean inside and lube the spring in there. I ordered some OEM screws from Sig and when I got them , I compared them and yes the screws I had were to long and the ones from Sig were just a tad shorter.I hope this helps someone.
You can get around this length issue by using viton O-rings as washers under the screw heads. I got my O-rings from Ace Hardware.
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samuriboy View Post
FYI,
There are two screw sizes for the 938's. If your 938 came with the wood grips the screws are a tad bit longer. I found this out when I bought some used rubber grips from a member either here or on another forum. If you go to Hogues website and go to the description for the rubber grips, there is a note that states the sizes of the screws. Below is the Quote:

Please note: SIG Sauer supplies 2 different screw lengths for the 938, depending on the factory grips sold with the gun. Laminate wood grips have 0.188" screws. Rubber, G10, and Polymer grips have 0.155" screws.

Hogue G10 and Rubber grips only work with the 0.155" grip screws. A new set will need to be purchased if your firearm came with the laminate wood grips.

I tried the screws that were used for my wood grips and they were to long. I tried to insert a mag and it would not go in. Looking into the mag well I can see the screws sticking out into the mag well. My OEM grip screws came with "RED" loctite on them and they never came loose since I had the gun. I have taken them off more than a dozen times to get into the magwell to clean inside and lube the spring in there. I ordered some OEM screws from Sig and when I got them , I compared them and yes the screws I had were to long and the ones from Sig were just a tad shorter.I hope this helps someone.
The Sig C S Rep I use now told Me that All Sigs with Wood Grips Use Longer Grip Screws.
I found that out when I purchased some SS ones for My P938 Equinox with the Diamondwood Grips. I wanted to switch out the Black one for SS ones to match the Nickel Controls/ My other two Equinoxs P 226 and P220 Carry came with Nickel plated Grip screws
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:42 AM   #18
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My top left grip screw came out and went missing. (This after a trip to sig for hammer follow)
I'll be calling CS for a new grip screw & I hope my threads are not too far gone. They don't look good on that top hole.

One question on the helicoil fix: where did you find the replacement screw & did it have a hex-head?
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Old 12-26-2016, 06:59 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by drband View Post
My top left grip screw came out and went missing. (This after a trip to sig for hammer follow)
I'll be calling CS for a new grip screw & I hope my threads are not too far gone. They don't look good on that top hole.

One question on the helicoil fix: where did you find the replacement screw & did it have a hex-head?
I have also had my top left grip screw go missing and I have wood grips. I ordered new grip screws from Top Gun Supply and replaced it. Even with blue Loctite, I have to snug it up once in a while. The other three screws do not loosen up when I fire my P938. Maybe there is more vibration by the top left screw when you fire the pistol. Not sure.

I wish Sig made screws that were flush with the inside of the magazine well when tightened up.
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Old 12-26-2016, 07:41 AM   #20
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The red that Sig puts on is not loctite. It is a protective grease.

I use # 60 O rings from the plumbing area of any hardware.
Personally I will not monkey with loctite on aluminum threads.
With a lock washer or O rings snug is all that is needed.
Added advantage is more clearance on the magazine.

I find Sig service to be very good, and has treated me fantastic.
That said they don't give away the farm without some pushing.

I bet with the weakness of the threads on a 938, that a little push back would get a frame replacement free of charge.
Sig ultimately stands behind their guns, and has twice for me on used guns I bought.
Took some talking though. Polite and thought out beforehand talking.

An early Revolution C3 carry 1911 that I bought,needed a replacement barrel.
Storm Lake barrels used early on were defective.

Sig started out giving me smith and shipping charges, and after I proved I knew the problem, they did it all no charge, including shipping.
I ended up meeting Sig's head gunsmith later on, at a NRA convention because of that C3.

He did work later for me, and went way above and beyond.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwg13013 View Post
The red that Sig puts on is not loctite. It is a protective grease.

I use # 60 O rings from the plumbing area of any hardware.
Personally I will not monkey with loctite on aluminum threads.
With a lock washer or O rings snug is all that is needed.
Added advantage is more clearance on the magazine.

I find Sig service to be very good, and has treated me fantastic.
That said they don't give away the farm without some pushing.

I bet with the weakness of the threads on a 938, that a little push back would get a frame replacement free of charge.
Sig ultimately stands behind their guns, and has twice for me on used guns I bought.
Took some talking though. Polite and thought out beforehand talking.

An early Revolution C3 carry 1911 that I bought,needed a replacement barrel.
Storm Lake barrels used early on were defective.

Sig started out giving me smith and shipping charges, and after I proved I knew the problem, they did it all no charge, including shipping.
I ended up meeting Sig's head gunsmith later on, at a NRA convention because of that C3.

He did work later for me, and went way above and beyond.
I also use O-rings on all my guns with wood or G10 grips. Instead of #60 o-rings from the hardware store (which do work fine), I use dedicated Challis grip screw O-rings which are low-profile and I find do not cause the grip screws to stand proud of the grips.

- Grip Screw O-ring, 24 pieces #9962

My experience is that using O-rings is a simple, inexpensive, elegant solution to grip screws shooting loose and works every time (for me at least). I use them on my 1911's, and I just installed them on my new P-225 A1 Classic with the wood grips.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:47 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Timmay View Post
I also use O-rings on all my guns with wood or G10 grips. Instead of #60 o-rings from the hardware store (which do work fine), I use dedicated Challis grip screw O-rings which are low-profile and I find do not cause the grip screws to stand proud of the grips.

- Grip Screw O-ring, 24 pieces #9962

My experience is that using O-rings is a simple, inexpensive, elegant solution to grip screws shooting loose and works every time (for me at least). I use them on my 1911's, and I just installed them on my new P-225 A1 Classic with the wood grips.
Thanks
I just ordered some.
I had just given a couple rubs of the O ring on a file, to eliminate sticking up.
I'll try them out.
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:06 AM   #23
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[QU My OEM grip screws came with "RED" loctite on them and they never came loose since I had the gun.[/QUOTE]


That was NOT red loctite!!!

"Red loctite" most often refers to high strength Loctite and may me one of several types. They often require heat to remove - 500 to 550 F!! See:

How to Remove Red Threadlocker - Henkel Adhesive Technologies Blog

Unfortunately, different manufacturers of various thread lockers do not follow a common color code. The red material on some of SIG's grip screws is a pre-applied thread locker that is NOT high strength, nor should you use a high strength thread locker on grip screws.

Here's an example of a *red* medium strength pre-applied and reusable threadlocker. It may not be what SIG uses, but you get the idea:

https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-VC.../dp/B008D6GHY6
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Old 12-27-2016, 04:16 AM   #24
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Vibra tite sounds exactly like the red locking compound on my grip screws. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:03 AM   #25
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Has anyone found tiny lock washers that work as well or better than the O rings?
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:59 AM   #26
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Update: Sig CS is sending me new grip screws. Hoping that is all I need!
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Old 01-07-2017, 06:13 AM   #27
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I've had this (stripped grips threads) happen to me with a Rohrbaugh R9. CS "fixed it"...retapped the frame, and left it with bare aluminum exposed.

This issue/concern is one reason I'm still hoping for a P938HD. Would buy it in a heartbeat.
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Old 01-07-2017, 06:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T2C View Post
Has anyone found tiny lock washers that work as well or better than the O rings?
I don't think you will find a lock washer that works better than the Challis O-rings mentioned in an earlier post!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmay View Post
I also use O-rings on all my guns with wood or G10 grips. Instead of #60 o-rings from the hardware store (which do work fine), I use dedicated Challis grip screw O-rings which are low-profile and I find do not cause the grip screws to stand proud of the grips.

- Grip Screw O-ring, 24 pieces #9962

My experience is that using O-rings is a simple, inexpensive, elegant solution to grip screws shooting loose and works every time (for me at least). I use them on my 1911's, and I just installed them on my new P-225 A1 Classic with the wood grips.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:18 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmay View Post
I also use O-rings on all my guns with wood or G10 grips. Instead of #60 o-rings from the hardware store (which do work fine), I use dedicated Challis grip screw O-rings which are low-profile and I find do not cause the grip screws to stand proud of the grips.

- Grip Screw O-ring, 24 pieces #9962

My experience is that using O-rings is a simple, inexpensive, elegant solution to grip screws shooting loose and works every time (for me at least). I use them on my 1911's, and I just installed them on my new P-225 A1 Classic with the wood grips.
I agree with the use of O rings. I put on #60 ones when I changed my grips. Work great and they keep the screw tite without out over tightening it. I have done this on a number of guns with no issues at all.
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:38 PM   #30
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Update: Sig CS is sending me new grip screws. Hoping that is all I need!


New screws arrived from Sig today.
I carefully replaced the missing one and it threaded in and snugged up nicely. I'm going to leave it as is and watch for loosening. The new red stuff (I'm convinced it is vibra-tite) seems to be locked in well.

No need for other locking measures.
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