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Factory Maintenance and Lubrication Specs for P320 pistols

This is a discussion on Factory Maintenance and Lubrication Specs for P320 pistols within the P250 & P320 Modular Pistols forums, part of the SIG Sauer Pistols category; I completed the Sig Sauer P320 Armorer's Class 11/18/15. Here are the Sig Sauer specs from the factory manual on that date. Detailed disassembly and ...


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Old 11-21-2015, 08:29 AM   #1
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Factory Maintenance and Lubrication Specs for P320 pistols

I completed the Sig Sauer P320 Armorer's Class 11/18/15. Here are the Sig Sauer specs from the factory manual on that date.

Detailed disassembly and inspection by a trained armorer = every 3 years or 5,000 rounds.

Recoil Spring for P320 full size = 10,000 rounds.
Compact & Subcompact Recoil Spring = 5,000 rounds.

All 320 pistols, regardless of size:
Extractor, Extractor Spring, Striker Assembly, Takedown Lever: all = 20,000 rounds.
Slide Catch Lever, Slide Catch Lever Spring and post = 10,000 rounds.
Magazine Spring = When the magazine fails to lock the slide open. Our instructor also uses this rule personally - when a used mag spring is permanently compressed 1.5 coil lengths shorter than a brand new mag spring (a new "master" spring kept for reference), he replaces it.

Just as importantly, here are the important new things I learned about LUBRICATION:
Striker assembly is cleaned and dried only. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE (FIRING PIN) STRIKER ASSEMBLY.
Sear and sear assembly is cleaned and dried only. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE SEAR ASSEMBLY.
As a mechanical engineer, the above originally did not make sense to me. It did make sense after we disassembled the entire pistol and I saw a few things:
1. The materials that those parts are made of are innately VERY slick.
2. The parts do not move very much at all, they rock a for a short distance and that is it (they are not rotating in circles like a crankshaft).
3. Because they need no lubrication, adding lubrication simply gives carbon, dirt, etc. a place to collect and really gum up the works, literally.

My Cleaning Techniques (everything but the ID of the barrel)
- I moisten a patch with Rem oil and use a gun cleaning "toothbrush" to rub and clean all components of the pistol, thereby removing previous lube and combustion residue. I also use Q-tips moistened with Rem oil to get in the small spaces.
- I remove the FCU as a unit. Using a Rem oil moistened small patch allows me to safely get in between the small components and clean the combustion reside off. I only dissemble the FCU and clean it piece-by-piece if I've shot a zillion rounds and the pistol is filthy with combustion residue. (I shoot very clean ammo and the complete disassembly has only been needed one time in close to 1,000 rounds to date.)
- If there s excessive Rem oil left on the components, I wipe it off with a new dry patch.
- I've tried many different liquids including CLPs and have settled on the Rem oil because it is effective and it dries (see other sections of this post identifying which areas of the P320 must remain dry).

Important lubrication considerations for the Fire Control Unit rails, slide and barrel
I use TW25 grease. I shoot IDPA at an outdoor, grass range in Houston. I used to live in New Mexico so I know what dry sand is like. NWS Alpine above describes using a non-grease lube (Slip 2000 EWL 30) and has removed nearly all of it by the time he/she is done. That sounds better for NM and sand. What I describe here works well in hot, humid, grassy Houston and may prevent wear better, long-term, in a clean shooting environment, but may not work well in sand.

Determine which lube method and product works best for you by:
1) Shooting and determining what method provides the most reliable operation of your pistol in your field conditions (dry and sandy vs wet and soggy)
2) Inspecting your pistol to determine if the wear is acceptable over time.

Lubrication instructions based upon my education and experience
Attached are photos of TW25 grease on the rails of the Fire Control Unit and the barrel.

TIP - Trim the tip of the TW25 tube carefully, as close to the tip as possible, to get the smallest diameter hole in the opening that will pass grease - you are trying to make a grease syringe.

TIP - before every use, shake the tube of TW25 vigorously and gently knead it to mix it up / eliminate separation that occurred in storage.

1) The FCU rail tabs get TW25 applied to the top, outside edge and bottom leading edge of all 4 rails as shown in the photos.

2) The slide gets a VERY light application of TW25 where witness marks indicate that it contacts the barrel.

3) The barrel gets a very light coat of TW25 where the witness marks indicate that it contacts the slide.

4) The recoil spring assembly gets a little TW25 applied between the coils and down onto the rod; JUST ENOUGH so that after you manually actuate the slide as directed below there is a LIGHT coat of it on the rod.

5) Install the barrel and recoil spring assembly into the slide, then install the slide assembly to the FCU & Grip. Manually actuate the slide assembly 10-15 times or so, then remove the slide assembly again.

6) Wipe off the excess TW25 that collected on the back & inside of the slide AND on the barrel. I leave any TW25 still on the 4 rails there (there shouldn't be much, just a light coating).

TIP - I use Q-tips because if I'm wiping off more than a Q-tip can remove I applied too much grease in the first place.

7) Inspect how much lube is on the rails. If enough, re-assemble the slide and I'm done. If not, I will repeat #1, 5b and 6 again.

Have fun and be safe!
DC
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image.jpg (1.03 MB, 1020 views)

Last edited by DCSig; 12-24-2015 at 08:03 AM. Reason: Added Lube directions, TIPs and photo. Added Cleaning section.
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Old 11-21-2015, 09:28 AM   #2
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Thanks for the information!
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Old 11-21-2015, 01:08 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info.



I am thinking I can do more harm than good lubricating the gun at all.



If I just let it be& only dusted inside without using lube , what would be the eventual first symptom of not enough oil?

Thx

Rand
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Old 11-21-2015, 09:40 PM   #4
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Where's the YouTube?
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigrand View Post
If I just let it be& only dusted inside without using lube , what would be the eventual first symptom of not enough oil?
I did not clean and lubricate my new P320 before taking it to the range the first time. I assumed (incorrectly) that it would arrive properly lubed. I had a number of failures to eject a spent casing.

I cleaned it after the first trip to the range and lightly greased the slide and rails. The next trip to the range it operated flawlessly.
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigrand View Post
Thanks for the info.

I am thinking I can do more harm than good lubricating the gun at all.

If I just let it be& only dusted inside without using lube , what would be the eventual first symptom of not enough oil?

Thx
Rand
I'm not familiar with what you mean by dusting. The places that need lube are the barrel and slide interface points - the OD of the barrel where it contacts the ID of the hole in the front of the slide and the rails. If you don't, they will gall.

Be safe and have fun,
DC
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Last edited by DCSig; 11-24-2015 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:28 PM   #7
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I just returned from the range after putting the first 100 rounds through my 4 day old Compact P320/.45 ACP. I was extremely relieved by the flawless performance of the live fire because I had many problems dry firing before today. I then cleaned it with something I've been using for sometime called G96. It continues to amaze me that no one seems to have any knowledge of this terrific stuff! I've used it on four different brands of firearms now - all with great results. How can this be as it's not a new product? Based on my experience, I'll never use anything else. Anyway, this is my first Sig Sauer pistol and I'm loving it! I'm already calling this awesome trigger - "the trigger from God!"
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:11 PM   #8
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Great information, DCSig. Thank you very much for sharing what you learned!
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:56 PM   #9
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Happy to help everyone protect their investment, and possibly themselves and loved ones!
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:03 PM   #10
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Thanks for the maintenance intervals.
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Old 11-28-2015, 03:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCSig View Post
I just completed the Sig Sauer P320 Armorer's Class this week. Here are the current Sig Sauer specs from the factory manual. (I apologize if this is old news; I just posted this info on a thread requesting it and thought I should create a thread to highlight this information by itself.)

Detailed disassembly and inspection by a trained armorer = every 3 years or 5,000 rounds.

Recoil Spring for P320 full size = 10,000 rounds.
Compact & Subcompact Recoil Spring = 5,000 rounds.


All 320 pistols, regardless of size:
Extractor, Extractor Spring, Striker Assembly, Takedown Lever: all = 20,000 rounds.
Slide Catch Lever, Slide Catch Lever Spring and post = 10,000 rounds.
Magazine Spring = When the magazine fails to lock the slide open. Our instructor also uses this rule personally - when a used mag spring is permanently compressed 1.5 coil lengths shorter than a brand new mag spring (a new "master" spring kept for reference), he replaces it.

Just as importantly, here are the important new things I learned about LUBRICATION:
Striker assembly is cleaned and dried only. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE STRIKER ASSEMBLY.
Sear and sear assembly is cleaned and dried only. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE SEAR ASSEMBLY.
As a mechanical engineer, the above originally did not make sense to me. It did make sense after we disassembled the entire pistol and I saw a few things:
1. The materials that those parts are made of are innately VERY slick.
2. The parts do not move very much at all, they rock a for a short distance and that is it (they are not rotating in circles like a crankshaft).
3. Because they need no lubrication, adding lubrication simply gives carbon, dirt, etc. a place to collect and really gum up the works, literally.

Have fun and be safe!
DC
A video would be awesome.
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:22 AM   #12
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I just picked up a p320 compact yesterday. I degreased it completely with Slip 2000 725 and then lightly oiled everything with Slip 2000 EWL. Let it soak and then wiped as much off as possible and blew out all the nooks with a compressor. Leaves everything about as dry to the touch as you can get. Will not attract any fouling/dirt and will not let anything stick to it.

Going forward I don't see the need to clean this pistol for a long time. Very nice design.
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:05 PM   #13
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Good info. Video would be nice.

Last edited by Penna shooter; 12-02-2015 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:24 AM   #14
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DCSig,
Thanks for the information from the armorer's school.
Could you tell us what Sig says about lubing the barrel and slide?
I have owned a P320 full size for a couple months and think it's the greatest
"out of the box" service type pistol I have ever owned. I did send the slide only
back to have a taller front sight installed. When it was returned I found it interesting that
Sig had run a "bead" of grease in each slide rail.
Once again, Thanks!
JLK
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:35 AM   #15
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Grease does offer the best protection but depending on the environment it can turn into a gritty paste. This may cause even more wear. For competition and range shooting you will likely be fine with grease. In the Gray gun team SIG video they cover the barrel completely in grease. Makes sense for normal operating where you will clean it.

If you are running a combat handgun course then I would not use grease. I prefer Slip 2000 EWL 30. Its a slightly thicker 30 weight version of the EWL. Fantastic for pistol slides as it stays where you put it. Does't splatter on your nice clothing for post work range trips etc.

SIG endorses Lucas products and the new Lucas Extreme Duty Oil is similar in concept to EWL 30. Its a slightly thicker and tacky. I still prefer the non petroleum Slip 2000 products though. Keeps everything running and nothing sticks to it. Cleanup is so easy.
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