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Snap Cap

This is a discussion on Snap Cap within the SIG Sauer Gunsmithing forums, part of the SIG Sauer Forum category; I thought no one better to ask than a Gun Smith. Which is best dry fire empty; Dry fire on a snap cap; And of ...


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Old 12-24-2016, 05:04 PM   #1
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Snap Cap

I thought no one better to ask than a Gun Smith. Which is best dry fire empty; Dry fire on a snap cap; And of course answer any way you prefer.
I don't know how all snap caps work, but I bought a set and they have a spring loaded dead primer, and I was wondering if hitting the firing pin on this not so soft snap cap(a real hit primer looks like softer metal than this snap cap)?
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:11 PM   #2
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Which is best dry fire empty; Dry fire on a snap cap; And of course answer any way you prefer.
Correct!!
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:32 PM   #3
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Correct!!
agreed
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:33 PM   #4
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I only use snap caps to create a "failure" in drills.

There are some firearms that can be damaged from dry fire and in those I would recommend snap caps.


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Old 12-25-2016, 05:08 AM   #5
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Thx everyone for their input, it sounds like dry fire w/out snap caps seems to be the excepted direction.
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Old 12-25-2016, 05:53 AM   #6
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Rim fire guns are realistically the only thing you need to use snap caps in for dry fire practice.






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Old 12-25-2016, 08:22 AM   #7
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Always with the Sigs that have carbon steel slides, smart for the others. The firing pin can peen and damage the roll pins/solid pins in the slide after enough of it.

Cheap insurance to make things last longer.


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Old 12-25-2016, 10:23 AM   #8
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Always with the Sigs that have carbon steel slides, smart for the others. The firing pin can peen and damage the roll pins/solid pins in the slide after enough of it.

Cheap insurance to make things last longer.


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I'm a little slow on the pick-up, are you for or against using snap caps?
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:28 AM   #9
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Snap Cap

Very much for snap caps on the sigs, older rimfires (especially non - ruger). Essential if there's a cross pin of some sort that can stop the travel of the firing pin at full extension, I believe in a snap cap to delay parts wear and breakage.


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Edited because more hooch was needed for Engrish
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Last edited by jeep45238; 12-25-2016 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 12-31-2016, 12:03 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jeep45238 View Post
Always with the Sigs that have carbon steel slides, smart for the others. The firing pin can peen and damage the roll pins/solid pins in the slide after enough of it.

Cheap insurance to make things last longer.


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Before you start dry firing a firearm, you best understand your firearm that you are dry firing in.

As for certain Sig's or any firearm, beware.

Clarence
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Old 12-31-2016, 01:25 PM   #11
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Before you start dry firing a firearm, you best understand your firearm that you are dry firing in.

As for certain Sig's or any firearm, beware.

Clarence
Sounds good, so what about my P226? Should I use a Snap Cap or not?
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Old 12-31-2016, 01:46 PM   #12
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I would, as I do my 1987 folded slide.
Cheap insurance.
Gun owners should strip them down and understand how all of the components work together to be able to operate as intended.
Dry firing is not intended, therefor understand that in some firearms a snap cap is needed.
I shoot bullseye competition using an old Clark Sr. long slide, an old S&W Model 52-1 and a Marvel .22 conversion on a SA lower frame.
No need for a snap cap in a 1911 or M52 cause it has a firing pin and firing pin return spring which neither are captured by a roll pin to stop forward movement.
The Marvel I use a snap cap.

Clarence
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:19 PM   #13
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I would, as I do my 1987 folded slide.
Cheap insurance.
Gun owners should strip them down and understand how all of the components work together to be able to operate as intended.
Dry firing is not intended, therefor understand that in some firearms a snap cap is needed.
I shoot bullseye competition using an old Clark Sr. long slide, an old S&W Model 52-1 and a Marvel .22 conversion on a SA lower frame.
No need for a snap cap in a 1911 or M52 cause it has a firing pin and firing pin return spring which neither are captured by a roll pin to stop forward movement.
The Marvel I use a snap cap.

Clarence
Thx, I'm learning all kinds of things about the operation of pistols(vs my revolvers). Not only snap caps but not releasing the slide on an empty chamber with the slide lock, but to release manually.
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Old 01-04-2017, 01:42 AM   #14
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MONK, regarding your last statement.... revolvers with hammer mounted Firing Pins really need snap caps. Also never drop a round into an autoloaders chamber, then let the slide "fly home"... (or really at any speed) this requires the extractor in many cases, such as the original 1911 design, and folded slide Sigs, to "jump" the cartridges rim to engage the extractor groove, where as it was designed to slide under the "hook" while being stripped from the magazine. Doing that can and likely has broken a few hundred extractors over the years.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:41 PM   #15
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MONK, regarding your last statement.... revolvers with hammer mounted Firing Pins really need snap caps. Also never drop a round into an autoloaders chamber, then let the slide "fly home"... (or really at any speed) this requires the extractor in many cases, such as the original 1911 design, and folded slide Sigs, to "jump" the cartridges rim to engage the extractor groove, where as it was designed to slide under the "hook" while being stripped from the magazine. Doing that can and likely has broken a few hundred extractors over the years.
Very valid points and thank you for adding that to this discussion.
Firearm owners really need to get involved and learn what they have in their hands.
I know it will take money away from gunsmiths over the long haul, but hey, it is what it is.
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