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FPPP removal 90s era P229

This is a discussion on FPPP removal 90s era P229 within the SIG Sauer Gunsmithing forums, part of the SIG Sauer Forum category; I'm having a hell of a time removing the FPPP out of my slide. It's the solid pin style of FPPP. Been tap, tap, pounding ...


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Old 01-11-2017, 01:29 PM   #1
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FPPP removal 90s era P229

I'm having a hell of a time removing the FPPP out of my slide. It's the solid pin style of FPPP. Been tap, tap, pounding away with my punches and it doesn't seem to be moving one iota.

I am punching from right to left (punch is on the same side as the extractor). It's doing a great job of removing the finish from the pin, but getting it to move is another matter.

Any ideas on how to get it free from those more experienced than I?
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:38 PM   #2
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The solid pins in the stainless slides can be extremely difficult. I've broken punches doing this before and have now decided that I will no longer mess with detail-stripping stainless slides. GrayGuns says that sometimes they have to machine them out.

If you have access to a press, maybe try that. Otherwise you're getting to the point where you may risk damaging the finish on the slide if you try to simply pound harder.
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:31 PM   #3
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You need a bigger hammer. It's called a BFH
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:54 PM   #4
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WHY do You want to remove it in the first place ?
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:31 PM   #5
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I use a padded vise, position the pin just above the vise jaw. That way you can rest your hand holding the 2.8mm cupped tip punch on the vise to steady your hand. You are not gonna typically get it to break loose with a small hammer. First one, I used a single hand drilling hammer (it's probably 2.5 lbs or so). Gave it a good solid but moderate whack and it drove right out - the short shaft punch when right up to the slide and I was concerned I'd hit it too hard (no marring though - - - still best to go at it easy).

I have a Sunnen BT10 (10 ton electric hydraulic pin punch - intended for striving out wrist pins and such) in ready reserve down at my shop, but that's 10 miles away!

When banging away at any pin punch, you don't want to hit it more than once, then check punch position, hit again, repeat. Always be sure punch is dang near perfectly in line with the pin and hold firm pressure on the punch so it won't tend to bounce off the pin.

With cupped punches, if the cup isn't a perfect match to the curvature of the pin end, the cup tip can flare out. If this occurs, dress the tip to punch OD on a stone or whatever.

Edit to add: I know the drill is to replace the FPPP with a new one. I keep them in stock, but on my own guns only replace on condition. To reuse, a perfectly straight pin that looks good, line up pin splines with groove in slide as you would with a new pin.
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Last edited by bumper; 01-11-2017 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:35 PM   #6
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quangry, first off, welcome to the forum, from the southwest corner of Indiana.
DBS is correct, they can be a bear to remove. bblr is also right, about the "Bigger Hammer". I hope you have the right "Punch", for the first step. The 3mm "Short Punch" should be initially used, but it's tip, too could flex. In that case, I suggest you try and find a small diameter "Nail Set". If you have a large vise, using an old belt, pad the jaws with the pieces of leather to protect the finish. Adjust the slide so you have just enough of the FPPP cleared of the vise to position the punch. You are trying to drive it from the correct side, anyway. I would suggest using at least a 16 oz. Ballpeen Hammer. All you are trying to do is "Break the tension" If you see it has moved any, then go with the short punch, until the splined portion is clear of the slide, then use the "Long" 3mm punch.
A press, if available, would be nice, but you still need to have the right punches!
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firearms Collector View Post
WHY do You want to remove it in the first place ?
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

SIGs recommended replacement schedule for it and the firing pin spring is 20,0000 rounds.
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigarms228 View Post
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

SIGs recommended replacement schedule for it and the firing pin spring is 20,0000 rounds.
I've had the pistol for almost 20 years and have shot it many thousands of rounds. I haven't been keeping track of how much I've shot it that closely, but 1k rounds per year wouldn't be a stretch.

Figured I'd learn how to work on the gun and am in the process of replacing many of the wear items due its age. Last batch of ammo I shot was giving me a ton of failure to fires. Subsequent DA pull would send it off on its merry way. Could have been crappy ammo, but it's done it on occasion with my white box stuff too. The firing pin is a relatively cheap part, due for replacement anyways, and removes one possible factor in the failure to fire issues.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:58 PM   #9
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quangry, in relation to your Misfires... have you inspected the primers? If they're light strikes, it could also need a new mainspring. Actually, you might want to take advantage of Sigs detailed inspection. I know it may take the "Fun" away from trying to get it apart, but with that pin having been in there for 20 years, it may be a worthwhile plan, to let Sig "Rehab" it, for the next 20 years of service.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:03 PM   #10
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Some thoughts from the armorer's class..........

What are you using for a bench block? At class, we used a piece of 2x4 about 8 inches long with a 3/4-1 inch hole drilled through.

Then, that pin can be stubborn. Put the block on a concrete floor. Don't try to do it on a bench.

Get a good hammer and cup tip punch, and give it a good whack. As others have said, check after each blow for position.

And drive it out right to left. Replace the pin once it is out - it is not reusable.
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:46 PM   #11
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quangry,

Suggest inspecting fired primers, as others suggest, that can be telling. Have you installed a SRT (short reset trigger kit) in this gun? If so, check to see where during the trigger stroke that the FP safety block releases the FP (push on the rear of the FP with a plastic or wood stick, even a Q-tip) - - should ideally release at or before sear staging, but especially on guns with some wear, I've found it sometimes doesn't unblock early enough, and that can cause FTF due to FP wasting energy impacting the block plunger (besides the obvious potential for internal damage unseen in the slide. One I had was beating the snot out of the FP block plunger as and the FP had only a slight burr from the impacts.
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willard View Post
quangry, in relation to your Misfires... have you inspected the primers? If they're light strikes, it could also need a new mainspring. Actually, you might want to take advantage of Sigs detailed inspection. I know it may take the "Fun" away from trying to get it apart, but with that pin having been in there for 20 years, it may be a worthwhile plan, to let Sig "Rehab" it, for the next 20 years of service.
What's the fun in that, then? If everybody who wanted to work on a gun was told to just send it into the factory and they obeyed, we'd quickly run out of gunsmiths.

Quote:
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quangry,

Suggest inspecting fired primers, as others suggest, that can be telling. Have you installed a SRT (short reset trigger kit) in this gun? If so, check to see where during the trigger stroke that the FP safety block releases the FP (push on the rear of the FP with a plastic or wood stick, even a Q-tip) - - should ideally release at or before sear staging, but especially on guns with some wear, I've found it sometimes doesn't unblock early enough, and that can cause FTF due to FP wasting energy impacting the block plunger (besides the obvious potential for internal damage unseen in the slide. One I had was beating the snot out of the FP block plunger as and the FP had only a slight burr from the impacts.
Primers look relatively normal as compared strikes from other firearms I have, I suppose. Problems initially occurred with the weapon in stock condition so SRT is not the issue.
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firearms Collector View Post
WHY do You want to remove it in the first place ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigarms228 View Post
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

SIGs recommended replacement schedule for it and the firing pin spring is 20,0000 rounds.
Because I want to should likely be as good a reason as any. Figured this was the "Gunsmithing" sub forum and I'd get some good advice on how to work through an issue that seems to be quite common, and not the "Send it back to Sig for gunsmithing" sub.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quangry View Post
Because I want to should likely be as good a reason as any. Figured this was the "Gunsmithing" sub forum and I'd get some good advice on how to work through an issue that seems to be quite common, and not the "Send it back to Sig for gunsmithing" sub.

There are a few "gunsmith types" here, but I think the majority are not.

I have never in my life sent a gun back to the manufacturer, not once. If the problem required a replacement frame or slide, I'd sent them whatever they wanted to get it fixed under warrantee. Otherwise, send me the parts please, or I'll make the parts myself if proper ones are not forthcoming.

So no, you didn't come to the wrong place, this place is just fine!
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:49 PM   #15
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quangry, don't know what tools you have available, check either Brownells, or MidwayUSA, which have some of Sigs tools, along with a variety of punches. A possibility, in lieu of the "Nail Set", is the Starter type punch, made for removing an ARs front sight taper pins. They also have the 3mm "cup tip punches" for the job you are attempting.
The "block" that usmcdjb was describing needs to be hardwood.
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