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Flork's Lubrication of SIG pistol rails

129K views 153 replies 110 participants last post by  pbillyi69  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Forward: This article has been posted on various other forums and is on my company's blog as well. Please feel free to use it and share it all you want, but please place credit where it is due.

This article is about what I personally recommend for lubricating SIG Sauer pistols. I have different methods for lubricating other guns, but this article is focused on the Sig Sauer pistols.


My philosophy: If metal rubs metal, it needs grease between the parts.

We lubricate guns simply to allow theparts that rub on one another to move smoothly. Modern combat handguns are not intended to be run without lubrication. A previous customer of mine made this mistake recently and is now spending a lot of additional money to get his gunin working order after degreasing his gun, dry firing 1,000 times then shooting it after it came back from getting action work.


Application of grease

I had an empty "Shooter's Choice"ďż˝ syringe sitting around so I filled it with my favorite grease. Any method of application will work just fine. I use about a half-ounce of grease a day while working on guns and was in need of a way to keep grease readily available without having to unscrew the top of a jar or bottle and I found the syringe to work perfectly for my applications. What I like best about the syringe is that I can put the grease directly where I want it, such as inside certain springs and the corners of frame rails.


Product options

Any gun-grade grease will do the trick. I personally prefer to use Lubriplate, Shooter's Choice grease including a cool syringe for later use or Slide Glide. The grease in the following pictures is a lithium/moly-based grease that I'm experimenting with, details available soon.

I've applied most of the grease to the underside of the frame rail completely filling the top inside corner. This is critical along the length of the rails because most of the force of recoil lifts the slide and applies force rearward and upward against the underside ofthe frame rails.

Image



Notice how there is a greater amount of grease near the muzzle end of the gun than at the rear. This is intentional.There is only so much space in the tolerance of the pistol for lubrication to reside. Since the slide goes on back to front it'll push the remaining grease to the back of the frame and bunch it up on the back of the slide when the slide is closed.

Image



You can see that I didn't use as much grease on the side of the rails as I did on the underside, this is purely because it's not generally as necessary. The top also gets a layer of grease to protect against galling and excess friction.

Image



Different Mission, Different Approach

For my every day carry (EDC) I grease the rails, put the slide on, run the action a couple of times, remove the slide then wipe the rails off to remove the large amount of bulk. I leave the grease on the under side of the rails alone when I wipe them off, the slide normally holds enough grease to keep things running.

For an EDC, remember your gun goes everywhere you do and is exposed to everything you are, hot, cold, humidity, dust, taco shells from that ill advised taco you ate while trying to talk on your cell phone while driving last week - everything. So if you have grease squirting out of every crevasse on the gun, you'll be attracting the general detritus of everyday life into your gun. Generally, that **** doesn't make it in far enough to do any kind of damage unless you're irresponsible enough to never clean your carry gun.

For open carry EDC for law enforcement, you gotta start thinking a bit more. I've had a couple of cops bring me their duty pistols for work and I've been astonished at what I've found. When I cocked the hammer of one of them, I found three pieces of bitten off finger nail and a corner of plastic from a plastic ketchup packet! �Come on man, clean your gun once in a while, actually escaped my mouth. I asked how long it had been since he last cleaned it and he told me it had been a couple years, "I hardly ever use it, I figured it was still pretty clean." His gun was absolutely bone dry and I found dust on the frame rails as opposed to lube.


Cleaning Practices


Competition

Clean it after every 200 to 400 rounds. Most of the time a big match, or a day of shooting will be enough of a workout that your gun will need cleaning.


EDC with frequent use including open carry

Clean it after every time you use it. If you're going to depend on that gun to save your life, you want it to work the first time you pull the trigger, so keep it clean and lubed.


EDC with little to no use

Clean your gun at least once a month, it's more of the same of your gun being needed to save your life. Even without use, your gun needs to be cleaned and re-lubricated, so give it a quick bath and make sure it's ready when you need it. There are 720 hours in a 30 day month, I think you can afford to spend 1/720 of a month cleaning your gun every month, it's cheap insurance.


Lubricants Mentioned:

Lubriplate: Available from World's Largest Supplier of Gun Parts, Gunsmith Tools & Shooting Accessories - Brownells

Shooter's Choice: Available from http://www.shooters-choice.com

Slide Glide: Available from Brian Enos - Competition Shooting Books, Slide-Glide, DVDs & Reloading
 
#12 ·
I use Slide Glide on all my pistols. If it has a slide, it needs Slide Glide. Slide Glide Lite is for carry pistols.
 
#16 ·
Alex,



Welcome to the universe of Sig Sauer handguns.



I recommend grease on the rails because as you put the slide on, the grease gets kicked to the out side where you can wipe it off without much trouble. If you grease the slide, it globs the grease into the frame and makes a massive mess you have o clean up later.



Shoot Safe.



Scott
 
#47 ·
I have heard of it and have heard good things but i have not used it. my biggest reason I haven't tried it is that it seems it requires a heat gun to apply the product best as the hairdryer methods don't seem to get hot enough to to the job unless you want to spend all night with the hairdryer.

how did you apply it and what were your results? do you notice your slide wtc. moving more freely now?
 
#22 ·
If I have a gun like an X-5 or X-6 that has an extremely tight lockup, I'll use a CLP on them because that's about all that will penetrate into the working areas of the gun.



I haven't heard of Frog lube until now, but I have to say I totally dig their logo.



I've been playing with a bottle of Prolix that a customer of mine gave me over a year ago. The stuff works great to remove carbon fowling from cylinder faces and is a good working lube for tightly fitted parts.



Scott @ Apex
 
#26 ·
Great info much appreciated, loved this:

When I cocked the hammer of one of them, I found three pieces of bitten off finger nail and a corner of plastic from a plastic ketchup packet….”Come on man, clean your gun once in a while” actually escaped my mouth. I asked how long it had been since he last cleaned it and he told me it had been a couple years, “I hardly ever use it, I figured it was still pretty clean”.


I'll have to tell a cop friend of mine about that.
 
#28 ·
Sorry if I sound ignorant but I come from the Army and we never used a gun grease of any kind for any of our weapons.



My question is if I only use FP-10 (a synthetic oil with metal treatments) on the rails, and all the other parts mentioned will it harm my pistol?

I have an SP2022 and I fire about 50 rounds a month.



AND the post didn't mention the other parts that usually get lubed on an auto pistol like the top of the upper frame where the barrel hood rubs on the frame and the barrel itself which was recommended to me by a 'sig' guy at Academy where I bought it.
 
#29 ·
Using something like FP-10 will work provided you keep the surfaces wet. It most cases, after a day or 2 the metal surfaces are no longer, which means the protective properties of the oil are less prevalent.



On an M16/AR15, oil is all you really need, that's because the forces acting on metal rubbing parts are completely different than those in a semi auto pistol.



The other parts I didn't mention are listed in other threads and posts about internal lubrication. I'm working on re-writing the articles and taking new and better pics with more thorough descriptions.



On the Sig Pro models, as long as you keep the rails and barrel wet, you're going to be in good shape. I've heard the argument before that certain lubes leave an invisible Teflon coating to protect and I think they work for around 50-100 rounds. If you're going to do any prolonged shooting, you need grease on the parts to keep them alive the longest possible. I say this because I've seen hundreds/thousands of Sigs in my career and the ones that look the best after 50,000 rounds were greased prior to every shooting session.



Scott