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Old 06-18-2015, 10:28 AM   #31
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sticky for sure please.
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:44 PM   #32
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SIG SauerŪ SRT - How it can Fail


Very interesting.

I strongly suspect this guy's from the South.

I really do.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:18 PM   #33
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This was a great thread.

You folks are awesome!!!:d
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:06 PM   #34
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From kansascity45: Grayguns P - Series Perfection Action Kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by kansascity45 View Post
Did an initial install of Grayguns' Sig P-Series 'Master Kit' today. At least, the frame components - Trigger, Hammer, Sear, Safety lever and mainspring. I've noted a few install hints if you're gonna DIY.

Here's the pistol and P-Pak kit:



The installed trigger has nice rounded edges & a wide face for comfy finger placement - has an adjustment set screw that controls the trigger's travel. I made no adjustment. Make sure that you position the trigger's axle pin properly to install the locking block - that the pin's left end's slots are horizonal to slightly higher in the front. It'll help to hold the trigger forward while inserting the locking block too.



And, the installed hammer looks like the stock hammer. If you've never installed a Sig P gun hammer - CAUTION - Take great care to place the hammer reset spring's tang on the topside of it's pivet bar inside the hammer strut. Don't slip the hammer in straight down, but slide it in from the rear at an angle like the hammer was cocked.

Make sure the reset spring is on top of it's bar by gently pulling the hammer rearward - you should feel the reset spring holding the hammer in the frame. Then you can insert the hammer axle pin, making sure the hammer rotates smoothly.

Also, make sure the trigger bar spring is properly installed on both ends.

Grayguns includes a 19lb & 17lb main (hammer) spring in these kits. I used the 17, which feels good to me on this target pistol.

FYI, another caution - make sure you place the hammer spring strut's top pivot point on the underside of the same bar the reset spring is on. it's easy to place this strut's top too far forward on the hammer's axle - and the hammer doesn't function...



Then the safety lever, sear and sear spring can go home.



The new trigger feels real smooth, with a very nice reset and super light SA.



The kit also includes the slide springs - a firing pin return & firing pin block short/long springs. I may do these on another day. NOW, we gotta get this gal to the range!!

Cheers
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:10 PM   #35
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From kansascity45: Grayguns P - Series Perfection Action Kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by kansascity45 View Post
We have the new Grayguns firing pin return spring & firing pin safety block springs to install.



Driven the roll pin from the rightside to remove the firing pin & safety block.



Make sure the safety block and firing pin are in the correct position.



Doesn't hurt to polish up the block's sides while it's out. Depress the block, so the firing pin will slide into it's channel.



I don't like beating on my guns with a hammer, so use a vise to carefully press in the roll pin. Very light lube on the pin doesn't hurt, hold the firing pin in while the roll pin is goes in.



Easy Peasy!!



Very carefully complete the roll pin's return with 3/32 roll pin punch.



Grayguns includes Lucas Oil's gun grease .. seems pretty good to, if you don't mind your pistol smelling a little bet like a automotive transmission - which I kind'a like!!



Cheers
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:32 AM   #36
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:55 PM   #37
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Detailed pics or vids on the complete (armorer's level) takedown of the P210, please...
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Old 05-28-2016, 06:44 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleanlife View Post
The following Youtube videos show the complete disassembly and reassembly of a Sig 1911. May help newbies, like me, because it pertains to series 80 models; which I believe all Sigs are. The vids are not HD, and not perfect. But they are beneficial.



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Old 11-26-2016, 11:04 PM   #39
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Within first hour of being a member of Sig Talk.

I am so lucky to have found this site and this Forum. This is exactly the info I needed for my new hobby.
Thank you so much for all the info.
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:12 PM   #40
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I can see this has been out for a few years, but it's new to me, "And I Thank You"
While i'm on here, How many peeps go to YouTube so they can leave a thumbs up, I try to most of the time. I just think all these video makers should get as many likes as they can. Unlike a President that gives himself one.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:31 PM   #41
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Barrel Fitting, a Reckless Approach

Continued from Post #11

Originally posted here

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefstews View Post
Hello all, I recently got my 9mm Barsto semi-drop conversion barrel for my P229 357 Sig Legion. Per Barsto, if the barrel needed fitting, material would have to be removed from the barrel hood (section closest to the end of the barrel) and under the feed ramp.

The barrel would not drop into the slide initially. A couple swipes with a file on the barrel hood and it dropped into the slide. I installed the guide rod and a 9mm spring and tried to put the slide into position, but there was contact. So now I start working on the bottom of the feed ramp. Here is what I did for that:
  1. Take 4-5 swipes with the file.
  2. Reverse the barrel's orientation on the vice and perform 4-5 more swipes with the file, in hopes to even out the removed material.
  3. Mount barrel, guide rod, and spring, and verify if the slide goes into proper battery.
  4. Repeat these steps until the slide can be positioned correctly onto the frame.
I repeated these steps about 10-12 times until the slide was able to go into the correct position and I could actuate the take down lever. Total process took about an hour and a half.

I hand cycled the slide and noticed some resistance at first, until I added grease to the barrel. Once I did this, it felt normal. I did not have any snap caps, so I loaded a mag with a few rounds and hand cycled. Ammo flew directly to the right as I hand cycled. I think I am good to go, but I just wanted to verify with the forum if there is anything I need to do before trying it out. This is my first time doing this and a little nervous firing the first round. Please let me know if I missed anything. Sorry for the winded post.
What he said

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edsel View Post
Here is a rough draft of some Reckless Bar - Sto Semi - Fit Barrel Fitting, pending some finer points from bumper.

Full Disclosure: While I do have the Bar - Sto DVD, I've simply been too lazy to review its contents

The problem in coming up with a true step - by - step guide is that significant variation exists in slide - to - barrel lockup. There is simply no way one can guarantee that these parts would align the same way each time with different slides, barrels, and locking blocks / inserts. Many a time, one must simply "wing it!"

While the underlying principles are largely the same, this barrel was obviously fitted onto a Glock

Let us begin! Go kaboom at your own risk!



Attempt to mate the barrel + slide and simulate full battery. Hold it against the light, note where the light shines through, as well as the areas of contact...



There's likely room for a Sharpie or some DyKemŪ Layout Fluid in this step, prior to forcing some "Witness Marks."



Give the barrel + slide assembly a decent whack to highlight contact points





Look! Witness Marks! File off the offending areas, a little at a time. While this step may benefit from accurate measurements using a pair of Micrometer Calipers and a Dial Indicator,...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edsel View Post
...remember that this Semi - Fit Barrel is being installed onto a loosey - goosey pistol that will noisily sound off clickety - clack when shaken. Personally, this is merely an excercise in firearm fun - with the secondary benefit of extending the handloading life of my brass because of the tight chamber.



Once the rear of the Barrel Hood closely approximates the Breech Face...



...hold it up to the light and see how much material needs to be removed, and where.

If this were a true match pistol, taking accurate measurements in the previous step would probably result in a very uniform gap between the rear of the Barrel Hood and the Breech Face. That is, removing equal amounts from both sides of the rear of the barrel hood would have kept it centered and prevented it from "leaning" to either side of the slide. This obviously isn't the case here, but that doesn't really matter.



Give the barrel another whack.



Look! More Witness Marks!
Performed by perfesshunal weaponers!

Last edited by Edsel; 04-25-2017 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:33 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edsel View Post


File off some material from this area to eliminate any spaces allowing light to shine through.



Bettah!



That's the front of the barrel hood up there.

Shoulda labeled the picher properly.

Once the rear of the Barrel Hood plays nicely with the Breech Face, it is likely that only a little bit of material is preventing the front of the barrel hood from fully rising.



Give the barrel another whack.



Look for Witness Marks.



By now, you should have seen a pattern emerging...



Ohmigerd!



Let's whack it a few more times, for good measure!



One!



Two!



Three!



Yesss!



When "riding the slide," it should stop shy of a light tap into full battery; the above shot is simulated and slightly exaggerated.

Assemble the firearm, and attempt to "slingshot" dummy rounds - it should do so without issue, even if the slide was difficult to rack and / or the firearm was difficult to disassemble.



Even though one can rest with the reassurance of having proper tools (hey, that's a nice little Ruby Rod there!)...

NORTON INDIA STONES

NORTON INDIA STONES | Brownells

NORTON PREMIUM HARD ARKANSAS STONES

BROWNELLS NORTON PREMIUM HARD ARKANSAS STONES | Brownells

...the only tool I really used this time was the Ruby Rod as a platform on which I wrapped some 600 grit sandpaper

Personal Preference: Wet Sanding.

Masking Tape / Painter's Tape eliminates a lot of aggravation from unwanted scratches.

The light surface scratches on the other areas of the barrel that result from having inflicted "witness marks" are easily buffed out with 1200 grit sandpaper; again, with wet sanding.


Personal Opinions

1. The best barrels are the ones which don't fit from the get - go.

2. Do not file down too much material to the point wherein the slide is "smooth to rack." The slide must remain difficult to rack, and the pistol must likewise be as difficult to reassemble / disassemble.

3. Fit the barrel to the point wherein a very light tap from a mallet at the appropriate places is required to bring the necessary parts into full battery.

4. Do not polish mating surfaces no matter how much your impulses may demand it.

5. Fire a full cliiip clip clip clip, checking for battery each time - if done right, cycling the weapon by firing will smoothen and polish the relevant parts by peening. Things will "smoothen out" after around two boxes of ammunition.

6. Compared to Glock barrels... Bar - Sto barrels seem very soft.

Speculation

Even if we took material from the rear of the Barrel Hood alone, it's doubtful that any hazardous headspacing issues will occur. Within common sense, it's probably difficult to effect a catastrophic bubbafit, given how Bar - Sto specs their barrels.

Disclaimer

I no be tacticle. I no be alpha sheepdog warrier.

My firearms no be toolz, only toyz
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumper View Post
Bumper cannot add much to this . . .

Okay, a couple of thoughts. Edsel said go slow, that's not slow enough, go a little slower than that, take your time. Don't be discouraged if nothing fits to begin with.

Spend the few bucks on a small bottle of DyKem. Amazon sells it in blue or red. Both colors work well but blue is generally handier. Order it when you order your BarSto, you will get the DyKem weeks before the barrel. DyKem works much better than felt tip.

Remove DyKem with alcohol - I use denatured.

I've never treated my SIG like a nail. With DyKem, there's no need to whack anything with a hammer, just fit by hand, the DyKem, when dry, almost wipes off on contact - more finesse than a dinosaur with a hammer

BarSto says the most likely spot to need to remove material is the forward barrel hood lockup edge. On my particular barrel, I needed to remove material from the lug at the top rear of the hood.


Watch the video!

Very good, Edsel!
Thanks!
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Last edited by Edsel; 04-27-2017 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:32 AM   #43
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Internal Extractors

Quote:
Originally Posted by oakengineer View Post
Thats good info. I found a short (and kind of crass) video on extractor removal in an SP2022. Is the procedure the same?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edsel View Post
In Russia, extractor remove you!

Exactly the same.
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