kgray01

I've cured my P228 and P225 with Frog Lube and it has worked out GREAT! I'm wondering if anyone else here has heard of / used the product?

Flork

If I have a gun like an X-5 or X-6 that has an extremely tight lockup, I'll use a CLP on them because that's about all that will penetrate into the working areas of the gun.



I haven't heard of Frog lube until now, but I have to say I totally dig their logo.



I've been playing with a bottle of Prolix that a customer of mine gave me over a year ago. The stuff works great to remove carbon fowling from cylinder faces and is a good working lube for tightly fitted parts.



Scott @ Apex

AlexV

How do you feel about Ballistol to Clean?

Flork

That's another product I haven't used, but as long as it does the job, I don't see why you couldn't use it.

wingspar

If you have ever watched hickock45's videos, he eats, drinks and sleeps with Ballistol. Uses empty cans for target practice. Supposed to be great stuff. I have a can, but haven’t used it yet.

Harkanin

Great info much appreciated, loved this:



I'll have to tell a cop friend of mine about that.

Harkanin

this was a double post sorry, it can be deleted

4idsoldier

Sorry if I sound ignorant but I come from the Army and we never used a gun grease of any kind for any of our weapons.



My question is if I only use FP-10 (a synthetic oil with metal treatments) on the rails, and all the other parts mentioned will it harm my pistol?

I have an SP2022 and I fire about 50 rounds a month.



AND the post didn't mention the other parts that usually get lubed on an auto pistol like the top of the upper frame where the barrel hood rubs on the frame and the barrel itself which was recommended to me by a 'sig' guy at Academy where I bought it.

Flork

Using something like FP-10 will work provided you keep the surfaces wet. It most cases, after a day or 2 the metal surfaces are no longer, which means the protective properties of the oil are less prevalent.



On an M16/AR15, oil is all you really need, that's because the forces acting on metal rubbing parts are completely different than those in a semi auto pistol.



The other parts I didn't mention are listed in other threads and posts about internal lubrication. I'm working on re-writing the articles and taking new and better pics with more thorough descriptions.



On the Sig Pro models, as long as you keep the rails and barrel wet, you're going to be in good shape. I've heard the argument before that certain lubes leave an invisible Teflon coating to protect and I think they work for around 50-100 rounds. If you're going to do any prolonged shooting, you need grease on the parts to keep them alive the longest possible. I say this because I've seen hundreds/thousands of Sigs in my career and the ones that look the best after 50,000 rounds were greased prior to every shooting session.



Scott

vertfu

Awesome! and Thank You!! in advance for the info and your willingness to share that info with the forum!!

CoryB

Flork,



Thanks for the great advice.



But what about lubrication for the P250? There are no rails on the grip that can be lubricated - just small tabs. So far I've been greasing the slide itself and that seems to be working but I thought I'd ask the expert.



Thanks.



CoryB

P250SC

P232

Bricktop

A suggestion.



Do not waste your money on gun specific lube. They are way overpriced. At someone's suggestion I've been using Mobil One full synthetic bearing grease. It comes on a one pund can and costs $6.99. It will last you for life unless you regularly grease 30 pistols. It's red in color and you can find it at any auto zone or auto parts store where Mobil One is carried. A very thin layer of the stuff is all you need.

Flork

On the P250 or other Tab Rail guns, I grease them in the same way, but make sure to get the grease on the top, sides and bottom of each rail tab.



The Mobil One grease is basically Enos Slide Glide, so you shouldn't have a problem using it for a gun. The reason I use gun greases is that they're tested and most of the time proven to function well and not cause any problems in cold weather or super hot weather. We use Lubriplate Marine Grade Grease for guns these days and it's been working great.



Scott

Flork

Double post deleted

Bricktop

Scott I think I understand you on this.....



I just picked up another Sig SP2022 (had a Sig Pro in the late 90's but sold it)and the tabs you are referring to are the wing looking deals on the front and rear of the frame. That is the only metal on metal part I think because I don't see any point greasing the bottom of the slide as it would be metal on plastic.

Flork

That's correct!

Bricktop

cool thanks.



On a side note...I used to just use gun oil on the P Series Sigs that I own. I would routinely oil the slide/rails weekly or bi-weekly but started using the grease at your suggestion. A very thin layer seems to do the trick on all 3 Sigs. Any more and it just comes out on the back end of the slide. I've found you need very little.



Thanks again for posting this up for us!

Skynet3132

good to know. thanks for the info!

liquidrazer

Thanks Flork! this is all good information!



I use a tub of Mobile 1 grease i got for like $6. Its 100% synthetic and it for wheel bearing, universal joint, ect... and its nice red color and shows dirt/contaminants nicely. And i will get years of use from this 1 tub.

jehill281

I love the post, I have been using the MilComm TW25 because that is what Sig shipped with my P239. Any update on the "new" lube you were experimenting with Flork?