This is a discussion on P229 mags within the SIG Sauer Pistols forums, part of the SIG Sauer Forum category; What is the best place to buy P229 magazines? Just picked up my P229C, SA trigger feels awesome, DA is really stiff....
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|06-12-2016, 02:38 PM||#1|
Join Date: Jan 2014
What is the best place to buy P229 magazines?
Just picked up my P229C, SA trigger feels awesome, DA is really stiff.
|06-12-2016, 03:03 PM||#3|
Join Date: Jan 2014
THX, just got two 12s and two 14s
The reset is short, without the SRT, will probably keep the standard trigger.
Last edited by SeaHawk; 06-12-2016 at 03:08 PM.
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|06-12-2016, 03:54 PM||#4|
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Richmond Virginia
I usually offer this advise to anyone who wants to improve the behavior of their actions on their pistol. So here it is, Step by Step.
Step 1. Go to the gun store and buy a bottle of Break Free CLP. Also buy a small tube of Lithium white grease.
Step 2. Go to a Radio shack, or similar electronics store and buy a spray can of contact cleaner and some canned Air (For cleaning electronic parts.)
Step 3. Go home. Get a Screw driver that fits the Grip Screws of the weapon.
Step 4. Get a cup of coffee, and a clear table that you can leave things alone overnight.
Step 5. Remove Slide from weapon. Remove Barrel and spring from Slide.
Step 6. Remove Grips from weapon.
Step 7 Spray weapon frame and all internal parts with de-greaser/Contact cleaner you got from electronics store. You want to blow get all of the packing or old lubericant off of the weapon. When you have it soaked, blow everything clean with the Canned Air.
Step 7. While things are drying on the frame, give the slide and barrel the same treatment.
Step 8. Place the grips on the weapon, return the barrel and spring into the slide, and reassemble weapon.
Step 9. Dry fire the weapon a LOT. (I usually do 200 or so times. harsh abrasive cycling of the hammer and trigger causes some base wear that accelerates the "Break in" of the weapon.)
Step 10. Disassemble weapon and remove grips again.
Step 11. Re spray weapon frame with degreaser and then the canned air. You want to blow away the small dirt and dust that you created while dry firing the weapon.
Step 12. Carefully and thoroughly lubericate the frame and action with Break Free. Set this frame aside and allow to dry partially overnight. What happens is the liquid part of the Break Free carries the Moly disulfide (lubricant) into the cracks and crevices of the action. When the carrier dries, the MOly is left behind and acts as a non dirt attracting lubricant.
Step 13. Go to bed. This needs to dry overnight.
Morning. Step 1.
Blow off liquid excess from frame. Add a small amount of White Grease to the Hammer actuator rod that is inside of the big spring at the rear of the frame grip. This allows you to smooth out the movement of the spring and hammer against the spring.
Step 2. Reassemble grips to weapon.
Step 3. Take a Q-tip and carefully apply the white grease to the slide and rails of the weapon. You want to coat the inside of the grooves and surfaces lightly.
Also take and apply a light coat to the locking lug of the barrel where it locks into the frame.
Step 4. Lightly coat the Main Recoil spring with white grease along the spring guide.
Step 5. Reassemble the weapon.
Step 6. Now cycle it and see if your single and double action are not improved. Yes it will be 10 + lbs on DA. But it should be smoother now.
|06-12-2016, 05:08 PM||#9|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wichita Ks.
On the SRT reset.
I have owned 3 P series that could not be improved with an SRT.
My 86-225, my 2000 239, my 2005 220ST.
I bought one and installed in my 220 ST. Couldn't see any improvement at all, so I took it out and put it in my 220-9mm. Made a world of difference.
My 229 also got one and needed it.
They are individuals.
|06-12-2016, 07:16 PM||#15|
Join Date: Dec 2015
Do a polish job on the trigger. It's not as hard as you think. I used acetone to remove the finish (no stones needed).
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