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Refinishing Advice - Teflon vs. DuraCoat

This is a discussion on Refinishing Advice - Teflon vs. DuraCoat within the SIG Sauer Pistols forums, part of the SIG Sauer Forum category; I'm planning to have my P228 refinished, and while I originally had my eyes set on a matte black Teflon finish I have been reading ...


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Old 02-08-2013, 01:20 AM   #1
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Question Refinishing Advice - Teflon vs. DuraCoat

I'm planning to have my P228 refinished, and while I originally had my eyes set on a matte black Teflon finish I have been reading up a lot on DuraCoat. It seems the general consensus is that DuraCoat is the more durable of the two, and that Teflon has a tendency to wear off or peel with normal use. However, it's not clear whether that is an issue with Teflon itself or user error during the application process.

Does anyone have experience with either finish, particularly when it comes to SIG handguns?

EDIT: Also, is it true that DuraCoat feels rubbery? I have never held a gun with DuraCoat finish before, but that seems to be an issue for some people.

Last edited by Cig; 02-08-2013 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:43 AM   #2
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I've not had either of those finishes on a pistol but I bet it is better to know your refinisher than even the finish...prep work means a lot...

I have had good experiences with IONBond (through SiG on a P225) and CCR for their CP II (Cera Plate II)...Brad and Mary were great to work with there too...

Bill
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:52 AM   #3
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I've been hearing a lot about Cerakote... I'm looking into it...
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:31 AM   #4
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Someone from another site mentioned CCR as well. Their work looks pretty mint.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:15 AM   #5
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my pics aren't the best but you'll get the idea...

CP II slide on a GLOCK 17 (milled for a Trijicon RMR)


CP II slide on a SiG P245


CP II slide on a P220 (with a Klein Plating frame from back in the day ) See how close a match the slide is to SiGs original Electroless Nickel finish on the frame (Klein was the original plater of EN for SiGARMS until the early '90s)...


SiGs Nitron (IONBond full pistol) on a P225 finished after getting their SiG Service Plan


Bill

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Old 02-08-2013, 08:07 AM   #6
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After buying a P-6 that was "refinished" ,I think with Ace hardware spray paint I decided to redo it. I looked into several procedures etc'and decided to cerakote it in stainless finish. It is NOT for the kitchen amateaur. I am proficent in car and truck painting ,so away we go. I have blasting facilities so I blasted the slide with 120 grit aluminum oxide then sanded it with 320 grit wet and dry {DRY}. YOU CAN NOT OVER PREP!!!. After wards I soaked the slide in acetone,completely covered,overnight. From here on out all handling of parts are with clean,{new} rubber gloves. Removed and blew dry with clean air then heated with heat gun and inspect for oil bled. If no bled thru ready to spray.I sprayed with a detail gun with a .8 nozzle tip. Have fun finding one of these. Cerakote is sprayed unthinned. Do not spray it too thick,slide and barrel jam up. I baked in the kitchen oven at 300 degrees for 2 hr. No smell if wifey asks. Mine came out 100% after 3 tries. Forget the "airbrush" way. Too much variace in the thickness and yada yada! All I can say is EVERY step is absolute. Prep prep etc.It looks and feels "factory" now all I have to figure out is how it will hold up. All tell me the stuff is tougher than a hookers heart. If you send out check the companies reputation.That means a lot.
This home project is NOT for everone. If you don't already have the equiptment you will spent 1-2 k getting set up.Spray equipt SATA,SNAP_ON, ARAWANTA will run about 500. blaster cabnet and grit 3-4 hundred and the list goes on. Cerakote from Brownell bout 45bucs. Also I forgot I disassembled for a "detail". job and did not do the fire pin assy. Saw no need and thickness is too critical even though cerakote says you can.Evidentally they have not been around SIGS.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:23 AM   #7
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I would choose cerakote over durakote for sure but have you looked into hydro transfer? I'm not sure Hydro exists in solid colors but if it does I think I'd go that route. I have a glock being hydro'd in ATACs at the moment and it only cost me $100. That consists of primer, undercoat, the transfer and clear coat.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:29 AM   #8
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I have had my Remington 870 and Kimber CDP II refinished with Black-T. I can highly recommend it - here is their web site - W.E. BIRDSONG INC- PROTECTIVE COATINGS FOR FIREARMS AND METAL . Here is a picture of my Kimber - http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSC_0036.jpg . Birdsong's takes your weapon down to the metal and then they coat every part. Put it back together and test it - then it is returned to you. They even coated the magazines. I have seen some of their products that are 10 to 15 years old and there is no noticeable wear on the weapon. This is the best stuff since sliced bread.

Last edited by mgentry4; 02-08-2013 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt Ed View Post
After buying a P-6 that was "refinished" ,I think with Ace hardware spray paint I decided to redo it. I looked into several procedures etc'and decided to cerakote it in stainless finish. It is NOT for the kitchen amateaur. I am proficent in car and truck painting ,so away we go. I have blasting facilities so I blasted the slide with 120 grit aluminum oxide then sanded it with 320 grit wet and dry {DRY}. YOU CAN NOT OVER PREP!!!. After wards I soaked the slide in acetone,completely covered,overnight. From here on out all handling of parts are with clean,{new} rubber gloves. Removed and blew dry with clean air then heated with heat gun and inspect for oil bled. If no bled thru ready to spray.I sprayed with a detail gun with a .8 nozzle tip. Have fun finding one of these. Cerakote is sprayed unthinned. Do not spray it too thick,slide and barrel jam up. I baked in the kitchen oven at 300 degrees for 2 hr. No smell if wifey asks. Mine came out 100% after 3 tries. Forget the "airbrush" way. Too much variace in the thickness and yada yada! All I can say is EVERY step is absolute. Prep prep etc.It looks and feels "factory" now all I have to figure out is how it will hold up. All tell me the stuff is tougher than a hookers heart. If you send out check the companies reputation.That means a lot.
This home project is NOT for everone. If you don't already have the equiptment you will spent 1-2 k getting set up.Spray equipt SATA,SNAP_ON, ARAWANTA will run about 500. blaster cabnet and grit 3-4 hundred and the list goes on. Cerakote from Brownell bout 45bucs. Also I forgot I disassembled for a "detail". job and did not do the fire pin assy. Saw no need and thickness is too critical even though cerakote says you can.Evidentally they have not been around SIGS.
Pics here:
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:14 AM   #10
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Pictures of the P-6 slide done in Cerakote stainless
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:09 AM   #11
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Pics here:
gotta say, that does look good.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:35 AM   #12
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gotta say, that does look good.
I definitely agree!!!
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:17 PM   #13
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you did very well there Sgt. Ed...very well indeed.

Bill
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:36 PM   #14
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As many here have said ...

Cerakoat over Duracoat for pistols ...

Duracoat over Cerakoat for rifles....

I have been a local applicator for both products for 3 years, and like both equally well. It's all about the prep.

For example ... I spend 2 hours prepping the metal for paint, and 10 minutes painting! Every drop of oil MUST be out of the metal prior to the application or you will have issues. I have had some revolvers that I have had to soak in brake cleaner overnight prior to finishing, and even then .... had to heat up the areas in the trigger and grip areas to 'leach out' the buildup of oils in the metal.

There is no such thing as 'OVER Prep' with firearms paint. If you think it's good ... do it one more time for good measure!
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:40 PM   #15
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Can someone give me a quick lesson-what's the difference between ceracote and duracote?
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