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P938/238 stainless trigger and trigger job

This is a discussion on P938/238 stainless trigger and trigger job within the SIG Sauer Pistols forums, part of the SIG Sauer Forum category; Hey Guys! I have bothe the 238 and 938 and have purchased the stainless triggers for each. I am ready to install them and have ...


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Old 03-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #1
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P938/238 stainless trigger and trigger job

Hey Guys! I have bothe the 238 and 938 and have purchased the stainless triggers for each. I am ready to install them and have watched the video multiple times from partsproduction. I have a couple questions for those of you that have done this...

1. I am planning on cleaning and flroglubing all the parts before re-installation. Is there anything I should do beyond that to help out with the trigger? For the 938, I have purchased a lighter wolf hammer spring for a mustang, that I have read will lighten the trigger, but won't do anything for the 238.

2. Anything in particular I should pay attention to with regards to cleaning while dissasembled?

3. Should I go ahead and dissasemble the main housing and clean it out while doing the trigger?

4. Any other springs or anything on the 238 that would lighten the trigger? I am told the wolf spring doesn't make any changes in this gun.

I don't have a huge issue with the trigger pull now, but figured while I have it all disassembled, I could clean stuff up/lube it.

5. Am I in over my head? I haven't done much of anything to my guns outside of cleaning them. I would like to say I am pretty handy and can follow directions pretty easily, but like anything new, makes me nervous to dive in. Thanks in advance for your help!
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:27 PM   #2
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:28 PM   #3
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:32 PM   #4
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I got the trigger in the p238 and it looks and feels pretty slick! Can't wait to see what I find in the 938, because upon pulling the trigger on the 238, there was a lot of gunk in there! A lot of sand like grit. Got it cleaned up, lubed and installed new trigger and got to say... it is awesome! It would only probably take 10 minutes to do it again as it wasn't hard at all after the learning curve, and I will likely do it again on the 238 at the same time as the 938 just to apply the frog lube several times to all the parts before putting them back together. I will say that I can already tell a difference in the trigger on the 238, and it looks 100% better I think. Pretty stoked about it.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:36 PM   #5
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Looks great.. What website did you order trigger from.? I'm going to do the same. Anything I should be careful of.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:39 PM   #6
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Just curious, is that an older model Equinox?

I just purchased one and the "Sig Sauer" and "Equinox" stamping is higher on the slide than yours. By the way, how do you like it?

Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:43 PM   #7
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I'd just like to know how the triggers match with the rest of the gun. I have the HD model and it would bug the crap out of me if the trigger was a totally different color/finish. If that makes sense.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:52 PM   #8
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It is old...err.. than my 938. Not sure what is considered old, but the manunfacture date is the end of 2010, and it didn't have the flat spring when I got it. I love the gun! It has performed very well for me. I bought it used about a month ago and the guy had one 50 round box through it (and it showed). My only question is if he carried it around in his pocket, or what, because it was like there was sand inside where the trigger goes. Anyway, it's cleaned out now.

The triggers are $40 including shipping and you can email the guy at partsproduction@oregoncoast.com. He shipped right away. The video instructions are on youtube and for the most part, are simple to follow. As mentioned, after learning curve, I could probably do it again in 10 minutes. It was a great experience though as I now know how every part in the gun works and could dissassemble and re assemble on my own now. Couple of concerns are as follows...

1. I am an idiot and didn't figure out EXACTLY how to uninstall/install the mag release and was thinking it was a screw... and it's not. It only requires about a 90 degree turn counterclockwise and you can push it out. Well, I have almost stripped the flathead part on the release, and need to buy a new one. Does sig sell these? I will be calling them tomorrow... and I feel dumb for admitting that I did it, but hopefully at least you won't do the same!

2. The trigger came with a larger stainless pin, that didn't appear to go to anything, and I used all the parts that I took off the gun besides the old trigger. Does anyon know what this is for? Does it have something to do with the mustang as they are the same trigger? I felt dumb, again, for having a part left over when finished, but the instructions really don't say what it is for.

Thanks,!
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:54 PM   #9
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Concerning finish, it matches great! It comes a dark grey color and you sand down the finish to your liking by using progessively finer sandpaper, which I did, until it matched my guns finish. Matches the equinox great, and I assume it would match the hd too. You could sand it down to a mirror finish if you like! I didn't go past the 320 grit as that looked best.
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:37 PM   #10
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I got one, just haven't had time to swap it yet.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:50 PM   #11
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So... does anyone know if Sig will sell me a mag release catch?
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:26 AM   #12
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I ordered a new mag catch and screw from Sig this morning. My negligence cost me $20, not too bad. I figure I would have paid more than that for a smith to do it, and now I know how to take the whole thing apart and clean without causing any damage, so I will chalk it up as a $20 lesson!
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:34 AM   #13
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I just got off the phone from Glen from parts production and found my answer to the pin. It doesn't explain it in the best detail in the video and/or show an image to let you know what to do with it, but the stainless pin goes inside of the spring on the trigger for the bar to rest on. This helps for a smoother trigger. It isn't 100% necessary as it doesnt' come like this from the factory, but just an FYI if someone else is going to do the trigger swap. I am going to re-do mine today and drop that pin inside the spring. The pin allows for a smoother surface for that bar to rest on rather than simply resting on top of the spring. So... now I/you know.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:00 PM   #14
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Thanks for the writeup, carlbren21. Interesting. I don't plan to change my trigger on my 938, but I have a couple of comments. First, about your spring change - I had a very rough and heavy trigger on mine when new, and using a snap cap, dry fired it a few hundred times (didn't count them), and later had the pull measured at my LGS. It was then 4.5 lbs. If you lighten the spring, what will it be after it's broken in like mine?

About the new pin inside the trigger spring - since it's inside of it, won't the bar still be riding on the spring, and not on the pin? (I don't really know what that looks like, since I haven't ever removed my trigger.)
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:04 PM   #15
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Sorry, I guess, I didn't specify. The pin has a rounded head on it to keep it from going all the way inside the spring, thus allowing the bar to ride on it. I have done the trigger on both of my guns now and will upload pictures here in a bit.
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