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Sig P220 Elite Stainless, Failure to Load

This is a discussion on Sig P220 Elite Stainless, Failure to Load within the SIG Sauer Pistols forums, part of the SIG Sauer Forum category; Purchased new Sig P220 Elite Stainless from dealer and was at the range yesterday for first firing. Problems. My history - own many other Sig ...


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Old 08-18-2016, 12:44 PM   #1
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Sig P220 Elite Stainless, Failure to Load

Purchased new Sig P220 Elite Stainless from dealer and was at the range yesterday for first firing. Problems. My history - own many other Sig pistols as well as H&K and Walther and S&W (wheel gun and M&P). Have competed in local pistol club competitions too. Am generally familiar with firearms. Pistol history - NIB with two 8 rd mags and I purchased Sig 10 rd ext mag, gun was not cleaned or lubed out of box before first fire, ammo was mixture of 230 gr FMJ stored for 4-6 years and also new box of 230 gr FMJ at the range (Blazer as I recall). Here's what I experienced & observed:

a. 3X first round in mag would not load although I believe I did properly slingshot the slide and what I determined when I pulled the slide and looked into the chamber was that the round would be partially situated on the feed ramp but not completely seated in the barrel. It was as if it failed to feed leaving it in a nose up orientation.

b. Twice the round in the mid stack (i.e., 3rd or 4th in the mag) would also fail to feed in same manner.

c. No stove pipes.

d. I all cases the slide would appear to have fully cycled and I didn't notice it not returned to full forward position or out of battery.

e. I had to rack the slide to eject to unspent round and slingshot the slide back to load next round in mag hoping it was not out of battery.

Called Sig. They said I should field strip, clean and lube and that the pistol shipped with cosmoline (sp?) which is NOT a lubricant and could have impeded function and so I will. Wanted to know if anyone had any other thoughts. I've never ever had a Sig which I fired out of the box have these failures so a bit concerned particularly given the $$$ spent for this one.

Last edited by Reburg; 08-18-2016 at 12:44 PM. Reason: add tags
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:52 PM   #2
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was the no clean/lube a test??

malfunctions in 10 rd mag or the 8's or both??

welcome from az
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:57 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Reburg View Post
Called Sig. They said I should field strip, clean and lube and that the pistol shipped with cosmoline (sp?) which is NOT a lubricant and could have impeded function and so I will. Wanted to know if anyone had any other thoughts. I've never ever had a Sig which I fired out of the box have these failures so a bit concerned particularly given the $$$ spent for this one.

Go with what SIG said. While I haven't heard of them using cosmoline, you want to give the new gun the benefit of proper lube during break in. This is particularly important on an all stainless gun IMO. Stainless has a tendency to gall and this is one reason different alloys are used for slide and frame, one softer than the other to prevent problems. BUT, it needs proper lube.

Grease things that slide and oil things that turn. What you use is less important that getting it on there. Any good grease and oil will work. I use Super Lube synthetic for both, as it's got a broad temperature range, doesn't make a mess, and performs well.

If you want to check you slide to frame fit, field strip the gun, remove barrel and recoil spring/rod, the put slide on frame.

Due note there's an important note for the P series stainless guns. when field stripping, after removing take down lever, as you move slide forward to and through it's normal in battery position, operated the decocker (on DA/SA). This allows the safety lever to drop down a bit more so as to clear the slide and not stress the components.

When assembling slide to frame, start with the hammer decocked, full down, this for the same reason as above. If you don't do this, you may notice the slide coming to a stop as it reaches the safety lever if the hammer is already cocked. You could force it - - don't!

I've started using this procedure on all P-Series DA/SA, doesn't hurt.
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:11 PM   #4
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Thanks for quick input and replies. Will be field strip and lube later today and report back after next trip to range. Hopefully it is easy resolve . . . .
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:13 PM   #5
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Malfunction in 10 rd mag, 1st round. Happened in 8 rd mags too on 3rd round.
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:25 PM   #6
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I think the stainless-on-stainless would create more friction/drag without proper lube than Nitron-on-anodize would. Not surprised with the results you got.

But I've never fired a new SIG "out of the box" so what the hell do I know.
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:32 PM   #7
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I've known 2 different people who got New Sigs and took them straight from the retail gun shop to the range part of the shop and immediately had failures to feed, failures to eject and double feeds.

I field stripped both and found both to be dry as a bone straight out of the box. Not a drop of grease or oil on either one.

Lubed them up, the owners went back in the range, and life was good.
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:38 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ThnkFrst View Post
I think the stainless-on-stainless would create more friction/drag without proper lube than Nitron-on-anodize would. Not surprised with the results you got.

But I've never fired a new SIG "out of the box" so what the hell do I know.
I have, once and only once. I was shocked that I was having so much jamming with my new 1911. I'd gone straight to the range with it, just like the OP. By the time I was done I thought I'd been punked. LOL. Someone here told me to strip it, clean and give it a lot of oil. I followed that advice and haven't had a single malfunction since - out of any of my Sigs. Oil 'er up.

Sent from my Note 5, which thinks it can spell better than I can...
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:54 PM   #9
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Will get stripped, cleaned and lubed up before next firing and report back to the group. Am hopeful.
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:02 PM   #10
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Never taken one out of the box and fired it without a clean/lube. I bet this will solve your issues.

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Old 08-18-2016, 03:25 PM   #11
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Never taken one out of the box and fired it without a clean/lube. I bet this will solve your issues.

G.
Nobody here would go buy a new car and tell the dealer, "Drain the oil and tranny fluid before I drive it home" . . . I like to break 'em in dry!"

But they'd go shoot a new gun that hasn't been properly lubed? Not saying that the factory should or shouldn't be doing so. But in the absence of certainty - the proud new owner should for sure.
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:32 PM   #12
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Hope it works out for you. I'm betting that it will. Let us know how it runs after a clean and lube.

FWIW, I got the carry SSE this week. I have had 3 sessions a the range. 100 rds each of the first two and 50 rds today.

First session the gun ran well except for a couple of times the slide failed to lock back. Second session failed to lock back once. Today the gun ran perfectly. I'm hoping that the issue is resolved.
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:39 PM   #13
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Nobody here would go buy a new car and tell the dealer, "Drain the oil and tranny fluid before I drive it home" . . . I like to break 'em in dry!"

But they'd go shoot a new gun that hasn't been properly lubed? Not saying that the factory should or shouldn't be doing so. But in the absence of certainty - the proud new owner should for sure.

I hear what you are saying, but in all honesty, it seems to me that the manufacturer should send them out ready to use, or make it clear in the owner's manual that it is not ready to go. I can see how a first time gun owner can miss this. Then again, would they read the manual?
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:10 PM   #14
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I hear what you are saying, but in all honesty, it seems to me that the manufacturer should send them out ready to use, or make it clear in the owner's manual that it is not ready to go. I can see how a first time gun owner can miss this. Then again, would they read the manual?

It's hard to argue with what you say. Some do come from the factory all lubed . . . and a few don't. If there were solid consistency, then all SIG sights would be on straight and there'd be no factory supplied blemishes - that's not the case either. So it's best to check. And checking does make sense on several levels. When I bought a new airplane, I went over that sucker with a fine tooth comb, in one case I spent over a week checking stuff before a flew it - came from Germany in a container and there were obvious issues, so in that case it was wise to err on the excessive side - once you are up there, there's no option to pull over to fix things.
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:48 PM   #15
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My defense, my gun, my responsibility.
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