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New Sig 716 Won't Cycle

27K views 53 replies 29 participants last post by  talkingrock 
#1 ·
I picked up a new Sig 716 308 Patrol rifle. I stripped and cleaned the rifle and lubricated per the owners manual. I started with Federal American Eagle 150 grain FMJ boat-tail ammo and loaded twenty rounds in the Magpul magazine that came with the rifle. The Sig 716 fired the first round and then jammed. I observed that the the bolt had failed to cycle properly and failed to strip the next round and the bolt had jammed against the case wall of the second round. I cleared the jam and fired a second time. Once again, the first round fired and second round jammed the same as the first time. I set the gas block to the maximum setting but the rifle continued to fail to cycle a second round. To rule out ammunition, I switched to Winchester Nato spec 147 grain FMJ. Exactly the same result after several attempts. To rule out lubrication issues, I stripped and cleaned the rifle and lubricated again per the users manual. This time I tried Speer LE Gold Dot 150 grain GDSP Duty ammunition. Same result as before. The Sig 716 fires first round and fails to cycle second round. All of the ammunition is new and cycles perfectly in my other 308 rifles. I'm very disappointed with this rifle. The Sig 716 is unreliable and I would not recommend purchasing this rifle. This is a real anomaly and I would appreciate any information about this issue from Sig Sauer or the user community.
 
#32 ·
Thanks for the info...I have tried 3 magazines and just bought some hornaday match target rounds to try, I'm just wondering why so many issues that are exactly the same. Regardless I'm going to send the gun back to have them work the issues out of it. I am a huge sig fan and have never had any isuues with my pistols. This will be the true test if they take care of me.

Thanks again
 
#33 ·
I too had fail to cycle problems with the Sig 716 as well as the LWRC REPR. The same load worked just fine in the Rock River LAR8, but failed in the Sig & REPR.

Now I load with Reloader 15 powder at 1.5 grains UNDER max listed in the Sierra 5th Edition Loading book and both rifles cycle just fine, and accurate. Reloader 15 operates at a little higher pressure curve further down the tube. My experience has shown the piston .308 rifles are sensitive to powder being used, NOT the pressure, but the burn rate and location of pressure curve. I have been loading 150 fmc - 155 palma match - 168 & 190 grain match bullets for the .308

Of course now someon will tell me I am wrong, but that is MY experience. Been reloading since 1964.
 
#34 ·
716 Update! Broken in After Sending 200+ Rounds Down Range.

Good news! My 716 Patrol rifle is working flawlessly! I had a hunch that if I sent enough rounds down range it would begin to cycle properly. I cleaned the rifle and lubricated with Mil-Comm lubricants. I loaded 5 magazines with Winchester 7.62x51 mm Nato ammo. I continued to have cycling issues but it was starting to cycle more rounds correctly so I kept sending rounds down range. Finally, the rifle fully cycled one full magazine with out a problem. I switched to a magazine of Speer LE 150 gr. GDSP ammo and sent all 20 rounds flawlessly down range. Next I tried 6 different types and weights of ammo and everything cycled perfectly! I was able to hit the gong at 600 yards with iron sights so I am happy with the results. So the question is why is it necessary to repeatedly clean and lube and then burn enough ammo to get the rifle cycling properly? I would appreciate an answer from Sig about this.

Bottom line - the Sig 716 Patrol rifle is a great rifle and a happy addition to my fire arms collection!:)
 
#36 · (Edited)
Good news! My 716 Patrol rifle is working flawlessly! I had a hunch that if I sent enough rounds down range it would begin to cycle properly. I cleaned the rifle and lubricated with Mil-Comm lubricants. I loaded 5 magazines with Winchester 7.62x51 mm Nato ammo. I continued to have cycling issues but it was starting to cycle more rounds correctly so I kept sending rounds down range. Finally, the rifle fully cycled one full magazine with out a problem. I switched to a magazine of Speer LE 150 gr. GDSP ammo and sent all 20 rounds flawlessly down range. Next I tried 6 different types and weights of ammo and everything cycled perfectly! I was able to hit the gong at 600 yards with iron sights so I am happy with the results. So the question is why is it necessary to repeatedly clean and lube and then burn enough ammo to get the rifle cycling properly? I would appreciate an answer from Sig about this.

Bottom line - the Sig 716 Patrol rifle is a great rifle and a happy addition to my fire arms collection!:)
Glad to hear you got it to work finally, about how many rounds did you put thru it to get her to run correctly?


Mustangjim, welcome to the forum glad your not having issues, seems like about 75% of the time a goood cleaning and lubing cures the 716's issues, the rest appear to need some breakin time with good ammo.
 
#35 ·
Hi all. New to the forum and just want to share the experience I had with my brand new 716. Took the gun out for the first time on Thanksgiving day. The gun worked flawlessly for the first 10 rounds. After that, nothing but issues. However, i DID NOT clean the gun prior to taking it out.

The next day I went to the store, picked up some Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, and REM oil. I then stripped the gun down, cleaned the bolt carrier, bolt, extractor, cam pin, bolt rings, and firing pin with the carbon killer. I then applied the REM oil liberally to everything. Took the gun out yesterday, put 80 rounds of Federal 7.62x51mm 150 grain FMJ Boat Tail ammo, and the gun performed flawlessly.

Moral of the story, clean and lubricate the 716 (or any gun for that matter) prior to shooting it for the first time!!! For those who still have troubles, I hope you are able to get the gun to function properly.
 
#39 ·
I had problems with my 716 initially as well. I failed to follow instruction as far as cleaning the grease from the bcg. Once I cleaned and lubricated the bolt as well as adjusted the gas port to the second setting for the first 20 or so rounds, I never had a problem again. I've since set the gas regulator back to the 1st setting and it's still functioning flawlessly. I did do a quick trigger job to get rid of that gritty feeling though. Overall I'm very pleased. I assume the problem may lie in the packing grease in which Sig encases the bcg with.
 
#40 ·
How many rounds until 716 cycled properly?

I hate to admit it but I put about 200+ rounds and three cleanings before it cycled perfectly with all ammo. I put another another 500+ rounds through the rifle for fun. When I cleaned the rifle each time, I soaked and cleaned the bolt carrier group in denatured alcohol to dissolve all of the lubricants out of the mechanisms as well as the receiver and recoil spring/buffer. I used Mill-Comm lubricants which is highly recommended by Sig. I have a 6 Sig pistoles and have used Mill-Comm with acceptable results. Perhaps I should switch lubricants based on the success others are having. :)
 
#41 ·
#42 ·
I too had cycling issues with a new out of the box 716. Tried all of the cleaning, frog lube, etc. sent it back, came back with a polished bolt and the same issues with cycling.

A guy next to me gave me some 308 rounds that fired without issue. I've since switched from CBC 148 gr 762x51 to anything 308 and that seems to have fixed the issue.

The 716 is compatible with 762 as well as 308 as it states in the owners manual. Go with the 308 and see if the hotter round makes the difference for you, as it worked for me....

Best of luck, and uh, anyone want to buy some 148 gr 762? Just kidding!

Peace!
 
#46 ·
Sig Sauer 716 Problems and Issues with Shooting:

FTF, Cycling and Locking Open, Fixed, Might be Solved with Buffer Spring



Hello,

I do not have a 716, but I do have two 516's. The 516's had the same FTF not cycling issue and the bolt not locking open. All of it was due to too tight of buffer springs. I did several tests and the buffer springs, spring weight varied by several pound between various springs. That is why some guns have no issues shooting out of the box while others have issues until they are broken in or shot with hotter loads.

I don’t have the time to re-write my 516 article for a 716 or the time to test a 716, so just replace your thoughts with the 716 as you are reading the 516 article. Everything sounds very similar with the issues between the same guns and how using hotter loads work. So…., the below article might help.

Bottom Line: (after cleaning and lubing)
Cut the buffer spring or break it in…, and the gun should be able to shoot any type of ammo and not just hot ammo.

I have two Sig Sauer 516 rifles. Both had the similar problems that are posted all over the web about not firing correctly with not feeding in the new rounds (FTF), so not cycling correctly, and after the last round is shot, failing to lock the bolt open. I have analyzed many posts and my two Sig 516 rifles and others…, and did testing and experiments to find the exact cause of the issue and how to fix it. I of course did a thorough initial cleaning and re-lubing.
The Issue: Straight to the point: Buffer Spring Weight too Tight (with HOT ammo it worked fine)

716 Insert:
(When reading the below article…, just replace the 516 with the 716 and imagine the lighter loads versus the hotter loads… the 716 seems to be having the same issues as the 516’s. The 716 shoots great with hot ammo or .308, but not always with the lighter loads….. read on….)

Some of the buffer springs are too tight from the factory and not all the springs have the same tension/weight, so that is why some fixes worked and why some rifles shoot the lighter ammo perfectly, while other rifles do not operate correctly when shooting light ammo and do not cycle correctly or lock open, but do with hot ammo. In fact, some springs are up to 3lbs heavier than others causing these issues.

These buffer spring variances can greatly affect how the rifle acts when firing light ammo due to its lower pressure. So when light ammo is shot, there is not enough pressure to push the bolt back far enough to load the new round and there is not enough pressure to lock the chamber open after the last round. Some of the springs are too tight from the factory for light ammo.

Generally, the Sig Sauer 516 shoots fine with 5.56 hot rounds due to the higher pressure from the 5.56 hot ammo, which the spring variances do not affect. Same goes for the 716 with shooting hot ammo.


How to Fix Sig Sauer 516 FTF and Chamber locking when shooting .223 light ammo: (a few ways):

716 Insert: (this might be the same for the 716’s with light ammo and hot ammo…)

1. Sometimes just a good cleaning and lube makes everything glide easier
- Clean the black packing grease off, inside and out and re-grease or oil
- Remove gas seals from bolt (they are not needed and confirmed through Sig that they are not needed and simply come from the factory like that). Removing the gas seals might make things slide easier. I left mine in and just wanted to focus on the springs.
2. Shooting 5.56 hot ammo for a while until the buffer spring is broken in and looser, then switch to .223 light ammo if you want due to the cheaper cost of the lighter ammo.
3. Shoot .223 light ammo on the Extreme Gas setting. Using Extreme gives another 1 to maybe 2 lbs of blow back pressure (when using .223 ammo) and will help loosen up the spring. Switch back to Normal Gas pressure after spring is looser. This works on some of the tighter springs, but not all, because using the Extreme Gas setting when using .223 ammo only mildly affects the added pressure. Do not be worried about using Extreme setting when using .223 ammo, from my testing, the extra blow back pressure is only around 1 lb (more or less) of extra pressure, which is not much. Now using 5.56 ammo might give you 2 to 3+ lbs of more blow back pressure and that is why in the Sig manual, it is stated not to use it for a prolonged time. The Extreme setting is there to use for when you are in battle and get the rifle dirty or bloody.
4. Shooting heavier .223 ammo (above 55 gr.) might work until the spring is broken in and is looser. Sometimes however, on the super tight springs, this still does NOT work. Use 5.56 ammo instead which has more pressure.
5. Leaving the chamber locked open for a day to a few weeks breaks the spring in and makes it looser, it actually loosens it up by a few pounds over time enabling to shoot lighter ammo.
6. Instant Sig Saur 516 Fix: Cut the buffer spring: Cut 1/2” to 1.5” (more or less) off the BOTTOM of the spring, NOT the top. Works instantly. It relieves about 1 lb to 2+ lbs of pressure (defends how much you need to cut) to allow shooting .223 light ammo with correct feeding of new rounds and locking the chamber open. There have been several posts on doing this where local gunsmiths and local gun shop workers have done this, simply cutting off around half an inch to1.5 inches off the bottom of the buffer spring. All have proven successful. Super tight springs might need 1.5 inches cut off.

716 Insert: (I am not sure how much the spring should be cut, so start off with only half an inch to 1.5 inches.)
Note: Things to understand when cutting the spring
1. I would only shoot .223 ammo if you cut the spring. First cut half an inch to see if that works. If not, cut more. If you decide to start shooting straight 5.56 ammo (which has a higher pressure), then replace the cut spring with a new carbine spring. A cut spring (over time) will be too loose for 5.56 ammo and “over time” could damage the piston rod components, that is why Sig Sauer will NOT cut the buffer springs because the gun is made to be efficient for 5.56 ammo.
2. Over time, with keeping the chamber open and firing rounds, the buffer spring loses strength by a few pounds of compression strength.
3. Carbine springs are only $4 to $10 to replace, so when you want the gun back to original specs or want to shoot 5.56 only, or super heavy .223 loads, simply replace the cut spring with a new carbine spring.

716 Insert:
( I am not sure what type of round Sig Sauer tests with the 716, HOWEVER…, I am guessing they test with a hot military round just like they do with the 516 rifle…. Read below regarding the 516 rifle….)

The Sig Sauer 516 rifles were designed to shoot thousands and thousands of the 5.56 bullets and were tested FIRST with 5.56 bullets which have a greater pressure than .223 bullets and so 99% to 100% of the time the rifle will shoot fine with 5.56 bullets regardless if the buffer spring is too tight because the high pressure of the 5.56 will override the springs tighter weight.

All it takes is 1-3 lbs of too much buffer spring weight to cause the bullet feeding issues (FTF) and chamber locking issues when using .223 light ammo. Sometimes the buffer spring might be only half a pound off from working correctly, so that is why a good cleaning can sometimes do the trick. That is also why some people send in their rifle to Sig and Sig cleans it and polishes and shoots it and suddenly it works, because only half pound of difference was needed to fix the issue.

Again…, all due to a tight buffer spring and .223 ammo having a lesser pressure compared to 5.56 ammo. There can be 5,000 psi to 25,000 psi. difference between light and hot ammo. That is why people using hot ammo experience no issues with the gun.

When using .223 bullets on new springs, because .223 ammo has less pressure, some rifles will feed the new bullets fine and lock the chamber open fine (because those particular rifles happen to have looser buffer springs) while other rifles will NOT shoot the .223 ammo correctly because those springs differ with a greater tightness from the factory and the low pressure of the .223 bullet cannot override the tighter springs. The rifles with the tighter buffer springs then fail to feed new rounds (FTF) and the chamber does not lock open after the last round because the bolt is not pressed back far enough for either action to occur correctly.

I did tests on several Sig Sauer 516 buffer springs with testing the weight of the springs with being pressed back at 2” and then at 3”. Each new factory spring tested differently!!! Some were 1-3 lbs tighter at both the 2” mark and 3” compression mark that I tested them at. So there could be up to a 3lbs. difference between spring tightness.

See Below for Spring Weight differences per lbs. at 2” and 3” compression between different factory buffer springs from Sig Sauer for the Sig Sauer 516:

Note: There was up to a 3 lbs difference between the various springs tested.

1. 2” compression: 6lbs and 9lbs on the various springs tested (up to a 3 lb difference)
2. 3” compression: 8lbs and 11lbs (up to a 3 lb difference)
- Again, 5.56 ammo shot fine on all springs. .223 ammo only shot fine on the looser springs.

I hope this info helps out all the people that were frustrated thinking there awesome new Sig Sauer 516 or 716 rifles were broken with failing to feed (FTF) rounds from the magazine after being shot and failing to lock the chamber open. All the trouble seems to come from a simple part…, a too tight of a buffer spring.
 
#47 ·
Continued from last post…. (read post before this post) See above first…



Sig Sauer 716 Problems and Issues with Shooting:

FTF, Cycling and Locking Open, Fixed, Might be Solved with Buffer Spring

Testing your Spring Weight:

I simply took my postage scale, I happen to have a 150lbs scale that weights to the tenth; so for example, I can see the scale showing me 7.25lbs. See below for how I test. I am sure there are other ways…, but this is how I did it. And like many of you, my life is super busy with a wife and kids and work…, so my testing’s are not 100%, but pretty close.

Testing the Spring Weight:
Supplies needed: Scale and tooth brush (or anything similar in structure). Take a ruler and mark the tooth brush from the end at 1”, 2” and 3”. You will use the tooth brush to press down the buffer to compress the spring within the lower. In order to cycle correctly and lock the chamber back, the bolt has to go back around 3+”.


1. Place scale on level hard surface.

2. Remove the lower from the upper

3. Leave the buffer and spring in the lower.

4. Place the butt of the stock exactly in the center of the scale

5. Zero-out the scale with the lower on the scale.

6. Have someone balance the lower from moving side to side but make sure they do NOT press down in any fashion.

7. Take the end of the toothbrush and press the buffer down to where the 2” mark comes level to the top of the lower, simulating that the buffer was pressed in two full inches. Write down the pounds displayed on the scale (should be around 6 to 9 lbs.). Then do the same at the 3” mark of the tooth brush.

8. I tested each mark 3 times to make sure it gave me constant results every time (it can vary each time by around .10 of a lbs, due to your hand not being perfect with pressing down, so I then took the average of the three press downs for every mark measured.

9. I then tested every spring I had and my DI carbine rifles too just for the heck of it.

10. I then slowly started cutting the spring and re-measured the cut springs and wrote down the measurements.

11. I had the “cut springs” measure around 6lbs. at 2” pressed down and around 8lbs at 3” pressed down. That worked for me with shooting .223 ammo. I left my gas rings in the bolt. I did not remove them. I do however know other guys that did remove them, claiming it eased the sliding motion. And it was verified through Sig that the gas rings in the bolt are not needed for the piston drive carbine. They are only needed for DI carbines.

I cut ¾ of an inch off one of my springs and just over an inch off the other.


NOTE: Now keep in mind that every gun might vary a pound either direction as far as what is best for your rifle with shooting .223 ammo because not all rifles are 100% the same within the entire motion of the rifle, different oils, lubes, greases, tightness, leaving gas rings in the bolt or removing them, might all be slightly different for every rifle. So some might have to have their springs at 5lbs at the 2” press down mark and at 7lbs at the 3” mark if their rifle is tight.


Or if someone’s rifle is really slick and easy sliding, then maybe 7 lbs. might work at a 2” press down and 9lbs might work at a 3”. But at least I think you get the point.


12. One of my springs I only had to cut about 3/4 of an inch. The other spring I had to cut just over an inch because it was a much more stiffer spring.


My Story and what I did:
I have 4 rifles. Two are AR 15 DI mid length gas systems and the other two are my beloved Sig 516 Piston Systems.


(Shooting with .223) On Extreme Gas Setting:
When I took both to the range, Sig 516 #1 shot with sporadic cycling (FTF) and Sig 516 #2 did not cycle at all, so every round shot had a FTF occur. And both rifles would fail to lock the bolt open on the last round.

After testing the springs on the scale…, low and behold…, it turned out that Sig rifle #1 had the softer of the two springs (as I suspected), hence the sporadic FTF, so sometimes it would cycle and sometimes it would not, and Sig 516 #2 had a spring that was 1-2 lbs stiffer on every measurement and had a FTF with every shot fired. So that is why I only had to cut about 3/4 an inch off Sig rifle #1 and I had to cut a complete 1+” off Sig Rifle # 2.


After Cutting the Buffer Springs: On Normal gas setting
Both Sig 516 rifles worked completely fine with .223 ammo after my first cut of both buffer springs. They cycled perfectly NO FTF and locked the chamber open. I used the Normal gas setting.


Preparing other Springs:
Ultimately I want non-cut springs in my gun so I can shoot .223 and 5.56 anytime I want, as many times as I want, without the worry of damaging the piston with using 5.56 ammo (this worry might not even be an issue, but who knows). So when I returned from the range I removed my cut springs from the lower and inserted new carbine springs that I purchased and I re-connect the upper and lower together and stored the rifles with the bolts locked open to loosen up the new carbine buffer springs. I did tests on the new springs and after just 1 full day of the buffer springs being compressed with the chamber locked open, the springs lost 1lbs of strength. So over time I will have more springs ready to go.


(Shooting with 5.56) On Normal Gas Setting:
I had no issues with shooting 5.56 except the issue of the bullets costing more. I do not want to shoot 5.56 on the range. I wanted to shoot my cheaper .223 at the range.


My Thoughts and Review about Sig Sauer and the 516:
I like Sig Sauer. And when I say like…., I mean love. I also love my 516 rifles. I think Sig Sauer developed awesome, dependable, battle ready 516 rifles that have been proven with 5.56 ammo. I say this because battle ready rifles will shoot 5.56 ammo and there are no issues with this rifle shooting 5.56 ammo. I also think Sig Sauer tested .223 and all proved successful because either the springs were loosened up by the time they tested the .223 ammo or they had a good batch of springs to begin with that did not need any loosening up.

I feel the problem of quality control lies with whoever makes the springs and if Sig Sauer trusted the spring manufacturer (which they should have been able to), then ultimately it is not Sig Sauer’s fault. If the company who makes the springs had better standards then the springs might not vary so much.

However, I do feel that once Sig Sauer was alerted to the issue, then I hope they invested some time to figure this out like I did and many others. Since I do not know that answer, I will not comment on it.

Thank you,
JZhouse
 
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#50 ·
I purchased a 716 few weeks ago and went to the range a two days ago.It functioned fine after the first mag the second had two FTF managed to clear them.Out of 100 rounds fired had a total of 7 FTF which sucks on a weapon that costs as much as the 716.The gunsmith said it needs to be broken in and I told him if so why didnt my Blackrain in .223 M4 need to be broken in worked flawlessly right out of the box after cleaning.The 716 is very accurate and enjoyed shooting but the FTF are a big concern for me.
 
#52 ·
Just adding my experience so far with my Sig 716. Cleaned thoroughly out of box then lubricated with the same lube all my guns get. Break free, Then to the west desert to shoot, sight in my Leupold Scope on it and break-in barrel and gun, I took about 400 rounds of various factory ammo. After 50 rounds started getting light primer strikes and failures to feed. Cleaned a light going over and removed very small **** from firing pin. Yes had to tear it down that far. failures to feed appeared to be caused by the bolt not going back far enough to grab the next round? Factory ammo not blowing the bolt back far enough?? weird? Dirty after 50 rounds?? Impossible. Light primer strikes appear to be caused by small pieces of burnt powder obstructing the firing pin from striking. which i think is caused by that spring not being on the firing pin thus allows it to free float while firing and having that small hole open for burnt or unburnt powder to enter. Just my theory. Called Sig and basically was told that is normal and that spring was eliminated because it's not necessary. Although that spring is shown in the blown up parts diagram. That is what made me think I was maybe missing a part. He had asked how many rounds and said that was perfectly acceptable. I don't know about any of you but that is not acceptable at all in an $1800 weapon. I want a gun that I can put any correct size cartridge and it will fire. Like the ones they do the military testing for 10,000 rounds and only lightly clean and oil after so many thousand rounds. I would like to be able to go to the range and shoot 4 or 500 rounds without one issue. Apparently the Sig 716 is not that type of weapon. I really enjoy shooting it when it functions but everytime I get a light primer strike and start dealing with a problem I want to sell it. I am going to try calling Sig and return the gun to get fixed before I do sell it. I do have optics on it and have been shooting it at 200 and 300 yards extremely accurately. bottom line though I would rather have a gun that does not malfunction. Like the Smith and Wesson pro 9 mm pistol I just bought slightly used. I have run just over 500 rounds of a variety of ammo including factory and my own reloads. So far absolutely flawless. It
eats up every single piece of 9 millimeter ammo you put in it. it is also very accurate.
 
#53 ·
Just adding my experience so far with my Sig 716. Cleaned thoroughly out of box then lubricated with the same lube all my guns get. Break free, Then to the west desert to shoot, sight in my Leupold Scope on it and break-in barrel and gun, I took about 400 rounds of various factory ammo. After 50 rounds started getting light primer strikes and failures to feed. Cleaned a light going over and removed very small **** from firing pin. Yes had to tear it down that far. failures to feed appeared to be caused by the bolt not going back far enough to grab the next round? Factory ammo not blowing the bolt back far enough?? weird? Dirty after 50 rounds?? Impossible. Light primer strikes appear to be caused by small pieces of burnt powder obstructing the firing pin from striking. which i think is caused by that spring not being on the firing pin thus allows it to free float while firing and having that small hole open for burnt or unburnt powder to enter. Just my theory. Called Sig and basically was told that is normal and that spring was eliminated because it's not necessary. Although that spring is shown in the blown up parts diagram. That is what made me think I was maybe missing a part. He had asked how many rounds and said that was perfectly acceptable. I don't know about any of you but that is not acceptable at all in an $1800 weapon. I want a gun that I can put any correct size cartridge and it will fire. Like the ones they do the military testing for 10,000 rounds and only lightly clean and oil after so many thousand rounds. I would like to be able to go to the range and shoot 4 or 500 rounds without one issue. Apparently the Sig 716 is not that type of weapon. I really enjoy shooting it when it functions but everytime I get a light primer strike and start dealing with a problem I want to sell it. I am going to try calling Sig and return the gun to get fixed before I do sell it. I do have optics on it and have been shooting it at 200 and 300 yards extremely accurately. bottom line though I would rather have a gun that does not malfunction. Like the Smith and Wesson pro 9 mm pistol I just bought slightly used. I have run just over 500 rounds of a variety of ammo including factory and my own reloads. So far absolutely flawless. It
eats up every single piece of 9 millimeter ammo you put in it. it is also very accurate.
 
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