Rudy

Don't worry about not having a firing pin spring, its not needed or a big deal. My 716 doesn't have one and I don't know anyone with a 716 that does have a firing pin spring in it. Unless something has changed recently I've never seen one on any of the thousands and thousands of M16/M4 weapons I worked on in the Army.

Jimiguens

Please remove the Bolt from the Bolt carrier and inspect the extractor outer surface specially the rear area. I also have a SIG716 Patrol that has been 100% reliable. But during clean up after my 1st trip to the range, I noticed some rubbing marks at the rear of the extractor. Further inspection revealed that the extractor was rubbing against the inner of the Bolt Carrier. To improve the cycling of the assembly, I removed the extractor and polished the rear area where the rubbing/interference was occurring. Now the Bolt cycling is smooth as silk.....

Again, my rifle has functioned with zero failures, but out of the box it will not always go into battery unless you let it slam all the way in. After a complete disassembly and lubrication treatment, everything was working correctly but I noticed that the Bolt cycling was not as smooth as in my SIG516. That challenged me to do a full fit/function test and thus found the aforementioned issue.

Hope this helps with the troubleshooting of similar issues.....

heyGriff

Hi Guys,

This is my 2-cents when you have your stuck bolt issue.
Please stop using a screwdriver to open the stuck carrier/bolt!!! All you need to do is-

1: Place the weapon safety on (if you can)

2: Remove the magazine (Remember there's still a live round in the chamber)

3: Hold the weapon by its fore end-grip with one hand, with the barrel pointing in the air.

4: With your other hand, grab the charging handle.

5: Now firmly ram the buttstock, in a downward motion (barrel pointing up!), against something firm (like the ground, a piece of wood, stout table, a rock... you can place a towel down to protect the stock) while simultaneously pulling down on the charging-handle. The momentum of this action and the butt-strike causes the carrier/bolt assembly to move rearward thus unlocking the "stuck" bolt from the breech. The cartridge will eject/fly out of the breech.
I usually do this clearing action kneeling on one or both knees. This allows me to keep my body clear of being positioned over the barrel.

4: REMEMBER TO NEVER PLACE ANY PART OF YOUR BODY OVER THE BARREL WHEN DOING THIS PROCEDURE. THERE IS STILL A LIVE ROUND IN THE WEAPON YOU ARE CLEARING!!

5: This was a technique I was taught and has worked 100% of the time for me.

By the way, I had to clean my 716 a couple of times before the cycling issues stopped.

UPDATE 29 Jan 2013:

1: The above process is called "Mortaring a Rifle". I was never told that before.... now I know! (thanks Charles!) Do a search... tons of on-line info on people "mortaring a rifle".

2: I was informed that if you have a collapsible/adjustable M4 style butt-stock, adjust the stock to the fully collapsed position before mortaring the rifle. If the butt-stock is in any other position, you could possibly damage the butt-stock locking pin when you perform the downward strike of the butt-stock.

Scot

Am I the only one here who thinks this Spyke guy is a major tool and doesn't know crap about his weapon?

#1) He cleaned the barrel from the muzzle end, a strict no-no according to the OM. You are supposed to clean ALL Sig Sauer barrels from the opposite end, not the muzzle end.

#2) He used NATO rounds instead of consumer .223. Yeah, I know, they are supposedly the same, but the BARREL's inside diameter is where the difference is. What works for one rifle may not necessarily work for another.

#3) Loading up live ammo in a house is NOT the sign of a knowledgeable end user, period. That's what snap caps are for. If ya absolutely GOTTA do it, use new brass from your reloading supplies instead. No chance of an accidental discharge that way.

#4) Prying ANY part on a new weapon is most likely to void the warranty and probably damage it in the process. I would have disassembled the rifle instead to trace back the source of the issue rather than repeatedly cycle rounds that do not chamber properly.

#5) Look at the way he loaded his Pmag. Maybe it's ok to do that, but in the military, and every other place I have seen the 'proper' method of loading a 30 round .223 / 5.56 magazine, you SLIDE the round in from the front to the back, depressing the previous round with your thumb to push it slightly downwards. NEVER have I ever seen anyone force a cartridge down into the mag over the metal retainers in the manner that Spyke demonstrates in his video. This will surely lead to a loosening of the metal flanges over time, potentially causing a weapons malfunction / cartridge jam in the receiver area.

ERT 28

Make sure your cam pin ( what the firing pin goes through in BCG) is lubed well. That little part can really mess up a gun.

HI State

Just to clear some things up for you
#2 this rifle chamber is for 7.62x51 NATO
#3 u can't use just brass to feed it. it will get caught in the feed ramp and smash the neck of the case,(but like u said snap caps would be the best choice)
#4 never had a problem with feeding rounds straight down.military mags have stripper clip guides that attach to the mag the rounds are then pushed straight down into the mag to load.

Scot

Aha, thx for clearing that up for me.

716shooter

I had a similar problem with my 716 when I first started shooting it. Turns out it was my fault. I was shooting my own reloads and the headspace was a few thousanths off too long, and it caused the same issue you are having. I fixed the issue on my next batch of ammo and it runs flawlessy now.

Im not saying that's the same for you, obviousy NATO ammo should feed, but it might be worth checking the ammo with a case gauge, just my two cents, hope you find out whats going on.

IronKnight1991

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot
Am I the only one here who thinks this Spyke guy is a major tool and doesn't know crap about his weapon?

#1) He cleaned the barrel from the muzzle end, a strict no-no according to the OM. You are supposed to clean ALL Sig Sauer barrels from the opposite end, not the muzzle end.

#2) He used NATO rounds instead of consumer .223. Yeah, I know, they are supposedly the same, but the BARREL's inside diameter is where the difference is. What works for one rifle may not necessarily work for another.

#3) Loading up live ammo in a house is NOT the sign of a knowledgeable end user, period. That's what snap caps are for. If ya absolutely GOTTA do it, use new brass from your reloading supplies instead. No chance of an accidental discharge that way.

#4) Prying ANY part on a new weapon is most likely to void the warranty and probably damage it in the process. I would have disassembled the rifle instead to trace back the source of the issue rather than repeatedly cycle rounds that do not chamber properly.

#5) Look at the way he loaded his Pmag. Maybe it's ok to do that, but in the military, and every other place I have seen the 'proper' method of loading a 30 round .223 / 5.56 magazine, you SLIDE the round in from the front to the back, depressing the previous round with your thumb to push it slightly downwards. NEVER have I ever seen anyone force a cartridge down into the mag over the metal retainers in the manner that Spyke demonstrates in his video. This will surely lead to a loosening of the metal flanges over time, potentially causing a weapons malfunction / cartridge jam in the receiver area.
Just to clear some things up for you
#2 this rifle chamber is for 7.62x51 NATO
#3 u can't use just brass to feed it. it will get caught in the feed ramp and smash the neck of the case,(but like u said snap caps would be the best choice)
#4 never had a problem wi


Thanks Hi State!! I was getting worried for minute there. I don't like getting into the hissy fitz. So I was sitting back looking at the responses to see who was getting the "my way is the right and only way syndrome". You are absolutely correct and tactful. That's refreshing...

timer00

I just got my 716 almost 2 weeks ago and cleaned it the first time and lubed and fired 80 rounds all flawless (60 Privi Match Ammo, 20 Privi Standard).

I cleaned again after that and used CLP and stored til this weekend.

Mine felt pretty fluid and positive even before first cleaning.

claytonvsu

I havent fired it yet or cleaned it. It is doing the same thing except I can get the charging handle back after locking forward, it just takes a real good pull. Also...
I noticed when i was cycling ammo through that the rounds were coming out pretty scuffed up.

I just did the whole cleaning on mine like the video said, I obviously can't tell if the round will cycle after a shot but it will chamber and eject rounds, it is just very stubborn about it and REALLY tight. Hopefully it will fire fine.

claytonvsu

Have you tried doing it with a different mag or just the one that came with it?

jmurray192

OK......... to much reading so I stopped but I read your first post. I to have a brand new 716. Bought a couple expensive brass cased ammo. Went out today and shot it. Same problem. But I was able to kick the rounds out from a wood dowl down the pipe which freed my bolt up. All new ammo was all doing the same. So my grandpa said hang on a damn min. Came back with some target reloads. Every round shot perfect. Not one issues. I think the issues is everything is just to tight. It has to break in. I think the reload caseing are smaller so it didnt cause the issues. So unstead of shooting we went into the shop and reloaded 200 rounds. Now no issues. Not everyone reloads or likes reloads but it solved the same problem you had to a T. Plus he tought me how to reload so it was a win win




PLUS...... were you using 308 or 7.62x51. I was using 308. Which 308 is ok just probley not the best for break in

Theodious

I just took my brand new Sig 716 out to the range yesterday (3/4/3013) and had this exact same problem several times. I did not break the gun down prior to use. I was using MagTech NATO rounds, 20 round Magpul mag, and it was about 32 degrees out. The charge handle would chamber the first round, but on subsequent attempts after firing, the bolt would not completely engage the next round. Then the bolt would get stuck and be very difficult to draw back to clear the chamber. I was thinking it was some noob error on my part, but after looking around, this may not be the case. Kind of a pisser given what I was expecting with gun on this quality.

Today, I am going to break the gun down and see if that helps. If it does not, I may be calling Customer Service.

Doc Harvey

Just had my brand-spanking new 716 out to the range on Sunday. I used Federal XM80C, 149 grain FMJ's with the supplied MAGPUL magazine. I did clean and lube the heck out of it before I took it to the range. Not a single hiccup. No FTF's or FTE's.

Trotter

"I did clean and LUBE the heck out of it before I took it to the range". That say's it all

claytonvsu

Second Trotter

I did the same thing.... Clean and Oil and took it to the range this weekend. Flawless

And I was a little worried because without firing it my gun was experiencing some of the symptoms that the video was.

Humble Advice-The only video you should watch before you shoot your gun is one that shows you how to thoroughly clean it.

762mmTexan

There are no springs for the firing pin in AR15s.

762mmTexan

1) people clean firearms from the muzzle end all the time
2) 5.56 Nato and .223 Remington are externally the same (thats why on a .223 Remington firearm they say "DO NOT USE 5.56 NATO"), they are internally different (NATO brass is thicker, which results in higher pressures to attain the same velocity). The 516 is chambered in 5.56 NATO anyway, so what is your point here? The rifle in the video is a 716 anyway, you can tell by the obvious video title and the fact the guy loads up 7.62x51 or .308 cartridges in the magazine and holds it up in front of the camera. Back to the main point, .308 and 7.62x51 are externally the same as well, but internally different.
3) I agree
4) I agree
5) This is the way I've always loaded my AR magazines, or any other rifle magazine for that matter (that doesn't require them to be loaded the way you describe, like the Accuracy International magazines for my Remington 700 SS 5R Milspec with a Badger Ordnance detachable magazine setup). They work find and never damage any rounds or the magazine so not sure what you're on about.

heyGriff

From one of my previous posts:

A discrepancy in the Sig 716 Owners Manual IPB (Illustrated Parts Breakdown).

The manual shows a firing-pin spring installed.

In actuality Sig opted not to use a firing-pin spring. So no firing-pin spring is used.

This is something that worried me for a day until I found out otherwise. Then all was better with the world!.... Griff