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Lee Loader Kit - Bullets Seating Crooked

9K views 47 replies 13 participants last post by  strat56 
#1 ·
I recently purcahsed a Lee Loader 9mm kit and I tried to reload some brass tonight. It didn't go well :(

I went to the range today and shot 220 rounds, I collected the brass for 209 of them. I brought it home, decapped all of them and started trying to reload. Sizing the cases worked fine, priming went fine, loading the powder went fine, seating the bullet not so fine. I made 7 rounds and the bullet seated crooked in all of them.

If you've ever used a Lee Loader kit then I think you'll know what I describing here. After you prime the brass, you free it from the sizing die into the decapping chamber. Then you chamfer the mouth of the case, put the case back in the decapping chamber, put the sizing die back over the case, charge the case, put the bullet in thru the top of the sizing die and use the bullet seating tool thru the top of the sizing die to seat the bullet.

In that last step, seating the bullet thru the top of the sizing die, the case is in the decapping chamber and the sizing die is sitting on top of the decapping chamber. There is nothing that keeps those two things, the decapping chamber and the sizing die aligned. Every time I use the hammer to set the bullet, they sizing die slides a little bit and isn't perfectly lined up with the capping chamber and this causes the bullet to seat crooked.

Of course unless I'm all wrong. But in case I'm right, what have you guys done to keep the sizing die and the capping chamber aligned while seating the bullet?

I hope this makes sense to someone.
 
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#2 ·
I was reading your post and trying to envision which Lee Reloading Kit your are referring to. I may of picked-up a hint when you stated "every time I use the hammer".

I am guessing you are using what we old reloaders used to describe as the "whack a mole" reloading kit. If it is what I think you are using, then I had one I bought for under ten dollars back in the earl 1970's for reloading .243 Winchester rifle rounds. I can see where there could be some difficulty with pistol rounds since not that much length of the pistol bullet goes into the casing. With a rifle round, a longer length of the bullet fit into the brass casing allowing the casing to keep the bullet aligned.

Maybe someone else can come along with more insight. I would strongly recommend you go to a Lee Turret press vs. the "whack a mole set-up.
 
#5 ·
I have never used that kit, only presses, but when I get bullet run-out on pistol rounds, it's usually caused by one of two things.
1. The seating stem doesn't properly support the bullet tip shape of the bullets I'm loading. When you press (with your finger) the bullet tip against the seating stem, it should stay straight and not slip askew or wobble.

2, The case mouth is not flared enough. When the case mouth is properly flared (belled), you can easily start a bullet into the mouth of the case and it will stay there and not fall out.

I would try # 2 first in your case. I'm not sure if the "Kit" comes with different shaped seater stems, but if it does, try that too.
View attachment 149961

Is it this one?

Wait for Flash LB to chime in - he absolutely loves Lee - branded tools.
Yes, that's the kit, sorry I wasn't clear.

They don't supply a flaring tool with the 9mm kit and the directions say to chamfer the mouth of the case. I'm using the Lee chamfer tool but maybe I'm just not flaring it enough.
 
#3 ·
I have never used that kit, only presses, but when I get bullet run-out on pistol rounds, it's usually caused by one of two things.
1. The seating stem doesn't properly support the bullet tip shape of the bullets I'm loading. When you press (with your finger) the bullet tip against the seating stem, it should stay straight and not slip askew or wobble.

2, The case mouth is not flared enough. When the case mouth is properly flared (belled), you can easily start a bullet into the mouth of the case and it will stay there and not fall out.

I would try # 2 first in your case. I'm not sure if the "Kit" comes with different shaped seater stems, but if it does, try that too.
 
#4 ·
Product


Is it this one?

Wait for Flash LB to chime in - he absolutely loves Lee - branded tools.
 
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#7 ·
#10 ·
I looked at those and watched a video on youtube before I bought the reloading kit. Based on what I saw on youtube, the kit looked like it would be easier to start with. I'll watch some more.
 
#9 ·
A picture would be a big help, but we have to start somewhere, so here's a start.

http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/RE1423.pdf

I'm guessing you didn't flare the case sufficiently prior to bullet seating. It's step #5 in the instructions.

Although I've used one of these quite a bit, the last time I did was just before I went in the Army and one of my "friends" stole it while I was gone, so I have had to really dredge through the memory banks.

Again, a picture would be a huge help here.
 
#11 · (Edited)
This is the worst one of them. The 9mm kit doesn't include a flaring tool and I've read that 9mm cartridges shouldn't be crimped, something to do with head space, and I'm guessing if I flare the mouth it will need to be crimped? I can get a flaring tool if that's what is needed.

Edit: I ordered a flaring tool from Lee, will be here in about a week.

 
#13 ·
It is seated too long, I stopped when I saw it was crooked, should I have kept going?

After this I learned how to set it to the proper depth using a factory load, it's actually pretty simple. Put a factory load in the decapping chamber, set the sizing die on top of the chamber, set the seating tool so that touches the factory load and then lock it. It worked for the guy that demonstrated it on youtube but I haven't tried it since I set it up. Waiting to find out why the bullets are seating crooked.
 
#14 · (Edited)
There is a difference between a roll crimp and taper crimp.
Roll crimp is primarily for securing the bullet to the case by crimping into a cannelure (groove). This is mostly Revolver cartridges.

A Taper crimp is for Auto cartridges and is primarily used to remove the flare after seating.

I don't load 9mm per se', but I do load other Auto pistol rounds and I flare and then taper crimp all of them. Not sure why 9mm would be any different.
 
#15 ·
There is a difference between a role crimp and taper crimp.
Role crimp is primarily for securing the bullet to the case by crimping into a cannelure (groove). This is mostly Revolver cartridges.

A Taper crimp is for Auto cartridges and is primarily used to remove the flare after seating.

I don't load 9mm per se', but I do load other Auto pistol rounds and I flare and then taper crimp all of them. Not sure why 9mm would be any different.
Thank you, I looked at Lee's 9mm reloading dies and they do include a crimping die in the 4 die carbide set so the info I read must be wrong.
 
#16 ·
Also. the 9mm, like almost all the auto pistol cartridges, is headspaced on the case mouth. The case length is not changed when belling the mouth because afterwards when you taper crimp, it's still the same length. Even If you belled the mouth but didn't crimp, the headspace would still not be the issue, reliable feeding would be the problem because the flared end would drag and snag on the Mag, inside the chamber, the feed ramp, the barrel hood...etc.
 
#19 ·
I know you are trying to work out reloading 9mm with the older style, VERY manual hammering technology. But I really recommend you go to one of the other more automated Lee systems. I started with the Lee breech lock single stage hand loader, which you can pick up pretty cheap on EBay if you don't want to buy a new one.
Breech Lock Hand Press Kit - Lee Precision
Lee Hand Press | eBay
It loaded fine with very good consistency, just took a while and was labor intensive. But easy to use and I never had a problem with bullet seating. I then got a Lee 4-die turret press, and very glad that I did. Much less labor intensive and faster. Again, never had a bullet seating issue. Best wishes for whatever reloading system you decide to stick with and use.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thank you for the advice. The reason for not using a press is a space limitation, I have no where to set up a dedicated space for reloading at the present time. Once my children and grandchildren, that have moved back in with me temporarily move out, I'll have space and the plan is to get a real press.

I'm going to look at a Hand Press.
 
#22 ·
I did try to put together 3 more, seating them all the way. 2 were crooked, one was good. I'm going to go look at a Lee Hand Press, mostly the dies I guess, and see if I think that will make a difference.

The hand press uses standard sized dies so other than not being bolted down, it should work as well as a bolted down press.
 
#24 ·
The flaring tool should've come with the kit and it's shown on the parts list.

Anyway, flaring the case should solve the problem and yes, use the crimp tool as 9MM requires a taper crimp and the tool will provide it. Flare the case just enough that bullet will drop into the case around 1/8" or so and that'll do it. Don't overflare as it will dramatically shorten case life.

I reload around 200 9MMs a week and have for years.
 
#31 · (Edited)
The text by step 5 says the Flaring tool is not included and not needed for the 9mm.

NOTE No flaring tool is supplied or required by 30 M-1 Carbine, 38 ACP and Super, 45 ACP and 9mm Luger. These must be chamfered to accept the bullet. Use a Lee Chamfer Tool or a pocket knife.

I don't know what they're reasoning may be for it, I ordered one anyway.
 
#26 ·
I have a rockchucker mounted on a 2'x2' harbor freight work table. It sat in my bedroom and I have run a few thousand rounds through it with no issues. I sat on the the of my bed and did my thing with .223, 380, 9mm, .40, and .45. when not in use, it just sat in the corner. Didn't need a lot of space for it. Plus it gave me something to do while watching TV. Deprime and resize takes very little attention. I do my priming with a hand primer.
 
#28 ·
I started out with a Lee Loader for 45 Colt. Those little kits are a great way to dip your toes into reloading for hardly any money. A lee Loader and a set of Lee dippers allowed me to be able to afford shooting 45 Colt. Since they only neck size cases, they get fire formed to your particular gun and result in some accurate ammo.

When I see one of the kits in the old cardboard boxes, I usually buy it. I think they are pretty neat tools. The kits for shotgun shells are cool too although no longer made and pricey when you can find them.
 
#32 ·
I bought a Lee Hand Press at Cabela's today, set up the dies and used the press to reload 26 rounds. Worked like a charm except for the Breech Lock feature.

Breech lock is a quick change feature that allows you to put each of your dies into a quick change adapter. The idea being you put the die into an adapter, set it up and then you can quickly change dies and they'll already be set up. The press came with an adapter that worked fine, I bought some additional adapters to use to hold the dies. The ones I bought wouldn't lock into the press at all.

I'm going to call Lee on Wednesday and ask them about it and see if there is some way to make them work like they're supposed to.
 
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#34 ·
Pew pew pew pew pew!
 
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#41 ·
So I went by Jack's house to see how he is doing with his reloading.
This is what I found !
I almost pee'd my pants when that video started :lol:

I was thinking also, after setting up one progressive press for different calibers over the years, I cant imagine how long it must take to get just one of those working, much less 4 all going at one time. I would be a nervous wreck trying to catch a missed powder drop or primer jam or a crushed case...etc.:eek:
No thank you!
When things go wrong , they go wrong fast.
The main thing is Jack lkes it, we are so proud of him.
Jack rocks .
:D :eek:, you guys are too funny, I've made a total of 126 rounds with my Lee Hand Press, hoping to go shoot them this weekend, if it will stop raining.

I need to order some bullets and find a duffel bag to keep this growing collection of reloading gear in. Right now I have it all in a box but I can see that it's going to outgrow the box quickly.
 
#39 ·
I almost pee'd my pants when that video started :lol:

I was thinking also, after setting up one progressive press for different calibers over the years, I cant imagine how long it must take to get just one of those working, much less 4 all going at one time. I would be a nervous wreck trying to catch a missed powder drop or primer jam or a crushed case...etc.:eek:
No thank you!
 
#42 ·
I called Lee today about the Breech Lock Bushings not working with the hand press. They said to ship them to them and they'll check them to see what is wrong with them and send me replacements if they can find anything.
 
#44 ·
Assuming you have the bushing aligned correctly (rotated with the cut out about 30 deg. to the side of the detent), you sometimes have to use your thumb to depress the detent, while pressing down on the bushing/die until flush with the top of the press, then rotate until the detent is aligned with the cut out.

Can you specify what is not working so we can try to zero in on a fix?
 
#43 ·
Good to see you're having luck with the LEE hand press. I have only used mine briefly, and a lot of folks only use them for powder changes and seating bullets at the range. My Breech Lock single stage has been wonderful, and will change your world once you have space for it. Might I suggest, as others have, that you mount a single stage to a board, which you can clamp to a table when needed, then stand in a corner, or under the bed, when not in use. Seems like you are enjoying reloading... you owe it to yourself to make the best product possible, easier.

Hand priming tools... if you guys haven't tried it yet, the Lyman E-ZEE prime is terrific. I started with the LEE hand priming tool, but it hurts the hands after a few hundred. The Lyman is quite comfortable.

The Camdex loaders are slick as snot. I don't think I have he wallet for them though. Here's a pair of them for sale on Armslist. A boy can dream.

ARMSLIST - For Sale: 2 Camdex 2100 Series Loaders
 
#46 ·
Lee is a very good company to work with.

I might add when the brass is properly flared or belled, the bullet will sort of snap into place enough to always be straight.
 
#47 ·
#48 ·
I took the next step in reloading I guess. I picked up a used Lee 4 Hole Turret press Friday night, got it mostly set up yesterday and loaded 50 rounds with it, pretty pleased with it.

I RTFI before I started and set up the dies in the press and the disk powder drop, didn't set up the primer feed because I had already primed the cases I loaded. The set up of the powder drop went smooth, worked great and fairly consistent, between 5.5gr and 5.7gr every drop for 10 tests, 5.6 was the target, before I actually started loading anything.

After I loaded a case I weighed each one and inserted it in a cartridge gauge and they were all about 180gr and they all passed the gauge test. I haven't fired them yet but I don't expect to have any issues with them. I used Starline cases, Berry's Plated 115gr bullets, VV 3N37 powder and CCI small pistol primers.

The press was indexing fine when I first set it up and then I think I rotated it clockwise instead of counter-clockwise and messed up the little nylon square ratcheting bushing and it doesn't quite go all the way to the right spot for the next die. According to the Lee website I also wasn't removing and replacing the turret plate correctly. The guy I bought the press from included a couple with it but I didn't find out what the problem was until I researched it after I had already put it away, I'll change it next time I load some. I ordered some of them from Lee also just in case I need more.
 
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