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Picked up my first M11-A1 yesterday.

This is a discussion on Picked up my first M11-A1 yesterday. within the SIG Sauer Pistols forums, part of the SIG Sauer Forum category; Originally Posted by Jedi5150 Not trying to be argumentative, but if you give this advice, you should always inform people that simply buying a video ...


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Old 04-25-2017, 12:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jedi5150 View Post
Not trying to be argumentative, but if you give this advice, you should always inform people that simply buying a video and doing their own work will void their warranty if they are not a certified armorer.
I sent in a month old P229 for FTEs after I had installed the SRT in it. SIG swapped out the extractor and made no mention of the SRT not being part its original set up. Maybe because the issue was not related to the trigger? I don't know. In this case, doing the work myself did not prevent SIG from honoring warranty work.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:40 PM   #17
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Oh come on, guys! You can take it apart to the itty-bitty bits, and as long as you put it back together, and assuming that what you do is not causal to any warranty issue, SIG would never know and would hardly give a rusty rat's . . .

BUT, if the gun has a short reset kit (other than the early versions from a few years ago and earlier), then the safety lever lower leg is going to block removal for the trigger/trigger bar assembly. One needs to release top leg of sear spring, and pushp sear pivot out to the left just far enough to clear the safety lever, then remove lever w/ magnet or tweezers. (You might consider re-tensioning sear spring to keep things in place while removing trigger and bar).

Hint, most videos correctly say slots in trigger pivot pin face down, and then say be sure the little slot is horizontal - assembly of blocking insert usually goes even easier if you turn the slot so it's 10 to 4 o'clock rather than 9 - 3. It's turn on it's own from 10 - 4 to 9 - 3 as things go together.
WOW! This sounds way beyond my abilities. Sending M11-A1 to SIG for the trigger swap!
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Old 04-25-2017, 02:15 PM   #18
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WOW! This sounds way beyond my abilities. Sending M11-A1 to SIG for the trigger swap!
If you can pat your head and rub your tummy while singing Yankee Doodle Dandy or Way Down South in Dixie, it should be a piece of cake if you take your time.

I'll allow as to how the Classic P can be a bit intimidating the first go at it . . . "Now where did this funny looking little part come from? Or when you pull out one little pin or screw a spring loaded part from somewhere goes zinging past your ear, or four seemingly unrelated and unrecognizable parts just drop out onto the work bench, or you hear the tinkle noise of a part dropping and can't find the darn thing anywhere - slightly worse if you felt it hit your shoe before is vanished - 'cause then you KNOW for sure it's gone but still don't know what it was??
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Old 04-25-2017, 02:45 PM   #19
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WOW! This sounds way beyond my abilities. Sending M11-A1 to SIG for the trigger swap!
I removed the trigger bar without messing with the sear parts. I did have to cock the hammer so it would clear the wing on the SRT sear and it slid right past the safety lever with a left-hand tilt as it came out. That was before I decided to do the detail strip to get all the dried grease out of there.
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Old 04-25-2017, 03:02 PM   #20
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Congrats! The M11-A1 is my favorite pistol! Enjoy!!!!
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:09 PM   #21
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I removed the trigger bar without messing with the sear parts. I did have to cock the hammer so it would clear the wing on the SRT sear and it slid right past the safety lever with a left-hand tilt as it came out. That was before I decided to do the detail strip to get all the dried grease out of there.
IF your gun has the Short Reset kit (newer version with long safety lever leg), and you were able to do that without removing said safety lever, then you must be a)Chinese, and b) a Master Wire Puzzle Maker. I tried for a good several minutes, as i've heard have others, and could find no good way to extrecate the nether end of the trigger bar from the frame without undoing that safety lever or risk forcing things. If there's a trick to this I don't know about, I'd seriously like to know, or at least know that I'm missing something (not entirely unlikely).

It's no big deal with the standard reset parts. And if that's what you have - meh. If you do have the newer SR kit, I'm in awe, and as soon as I find out which direction you live from here, I'm bowing that way . . . oh wait, we live on a round planet huh, guess I can bow any direction and it'll get there sooner or later. Do members of a certain religion know about this??
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:52 PM   #22
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Great find on the M11-A1, congrats!
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:11 PM   #23
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If you can pat your head and rub your tummy while singing Yankee Doodle Dandy or Way Down South in Dixie, it should be a piece of cake if you take your time.

I'll allow as to how the Classic P can be a bit intimidating the first go at it . . . "Now where did this funny looking little part come from? Or when you pull out one little pin or screw a spring loaded part from somewhere goes zinging past your ear, or four seemingly unrelated and unrecognizable parts just drop out onto the work bench, or you hear the tinkle noise of a part dropping and can't find the darn thing anywhere - slightly worse if you felt it hit your shoe before is vanished - 'cause then you KNOW for sure it's gone but still don't know what it was??
Now, I am scarred to do the trigger swap. Thanks for the warning. Never could whistle and chew gum at the same time. But, I shoot well and play amazing bass guitar. I'm told.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:29 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bumper View Post
IF your gun has the Short Reset kit (newer version with long safety lever leg), and you were able to do that without removing said safety lever, then you must be a)Chinese, and b) a Master Wire Puzzle Maker. I tried for a good several minutes, as i've heard have others, and could find no good way to extrecate the nether end of the trigger bar from the frame without undoing that safety lever or risk forcing things. If there's a trick to this I don't know about, I'd seriously like to know, or at least know that I'm missing something (not entirely unlikely).

It's no big deal with the standard reset parts. And if that's what you have - meh. If you do have the newer SR kit, I'm in awe, and as soon as I find out which direction you live from here, I'm bowing that way . . . oh wait, we live on a round planet huh, guess I can bow any direction and it'll get there sooner or later. Do members of a certain religion know about this??
It does have the short reset trigger installed, but I didn't compare it to any others I have. I do remember it having a squared end on it, instead of being pointed and tapered. It was easy to remove the trigger bar.

All the internal parts are different color-wise in the M11-A1. Not just phosphate, but could be different materials too. I wish I had paid closer attention and took some pictures.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:59 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by winterwar View Post
It does have the short reset trigger installed, but I didn't compare it to any others I have. I do remember it having a squared end on it, instead of being pointed and tapered. It was easy to remove the trigger bar.

All the internal parts are different color-wise in the M11-A1. Not just phosphate, but could be different materials too. I wish I had paid closer attention and took some pictures.
Yessir! You have the earlier version SRkit. That one does not interfere with removing trigger and trigger bar.

But, there is a potential problem and this is why SIG quietly changed the design. The "more squared end" older design (shown w/ sear):



can be an occasional conflict with that, the trigger bar can get "hung up" under the bottom end of the safety lever leg. Functionally, this hasn't been a non-op hang up, but it can cause short stroking the trigger as it significantly increases the reset distance when it happens. Apparently, allowing the trigger to move forward a bunch will allow it to reset.

Here's the newer version:


With the old, squared off version, I could see some dings and scratches with the trigger bar had it out with the end of the safety lever, but I did not have any hang ups. I changed them out anyway.

Working the action of the gun by hand, one would not think there could even be a conflict, as the trigger bar doesn't go down far enough to be an issue. But during recoil, the slide is moving fast and it can bonk the reset tab on the trigger bar pretty hard, I guess.

Department of more info than you asked for, Dept: Whenever installing the SR kit, it's good to do the "dry fire pencil test" before and after. Or at the least, check the function of the firing pin safety block. The new safety lever doesn't push the FP Block plunger up as far and on some guns, and this can result in light primer strikes or FTF (I had one old P229 I was working on that would not shoot at all after the swap to short reset). I made new, high lift safety levers:



The original lever is on top, you can see the taller "nub" outline. Note that this nub is exaggerated. It will be fit to the gun, the limiting factor being the slide won't go on if the nub is too high. I'll end up with a nub that is maybe .025" - .030" higher than stock. This is enough to insure the FPB clears the FB before sear release. It also makes it mandatory to follow SIG's amended take down procedure - always decock, when removing the slide, as the slide going forward reaches what would be "in battery" position. Always install slide starting with hammer down. To do otherwise, stresses parts and causes wear.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:22 PM   #26
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I sent in a month old P229 for FTEs after I had installed the SRT in it. SIG swapped out the extractor and made no mention of the SRT not being part its original set up. Maybe because the issue was not related to the trigger? I don't know. In this case, doing the work myself did not prevent SIG from honoring warranty work.
I mentioned in my earlier comment that SIG being anal about voided warranties was not my experience with them. I did a number of modifications to my SIG 516 before sending it in for warranty work and they were totally fine with it and returned my repaired rifle promptly. I have found SIG customer service to be exemplary. I only mentioned about voiding the warranty when doing armorer level work because I think people should make informed decisions. If someone wants to change their own trigger out, more power to them, but they should at least know that they are voiding their warranty beforehand. SIG also state not to use +P+ ammo, but that certainly doesn't stop me from doing it...but I do so with the knowledge that it is a calculated risk.

IWI has no such issue, the Tavor owners manual might as well be an armorer manual...but most gun companies are not that way.
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Last edited by Jedi5150; 04-25-2017 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:25 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by bumper View Post
Yessir! You have the earlier version SRkit. That one does not interfere with removing trigger and trigger bar.

But, there is a potential problem and this is why SIG quietly changed the design. The "more squared end" older design (shown w/ sear):



can be an occasional conflict with that, the trigger bar can get "hung up" under the bottom end of the safety lever leg. Functionally, this hasn't been a non-op hang up, but it can cause short stroking the trigger as it significantly increases the reset distance when it happens. Apparently, allowing the trigger to move forward a bunch will allow it to reset.

Here's the newer version:


With the old, squared off version, I could see some dings and scratches with the trigger bar had it out with the end of the safety lever, but I did not have any hang ups. I changed them out anyway.

Working the action of the gun by hand, one would not think there could even be a conflict, as the trigger bar doesn't go down far enough to be an issue. But during recoil, the slide is moving fast and it can bonk the reset tab on the trigger bar pretty hard, I guess.

Department of more info than you asked for, Dept: Whenever installing the SR kit, it's good to do the "dry fire pencil test" before and after. Or at the least, check the function of the firing pin safety block. The new safety lever doesn't push the FP Block plunger up as far and on some guns, and this can result in light primer strikes or FTF (I had one old P229 I was working on that would not shoot at all after the swap to short reset). I made new, high lift safety levers:



The original lever is on top, you can see the taller "nub" outline. Note that this nub is exaggerated. It will be fit to the gun, the limiting factor being the slide won't go on if the nub is too high. I'll end up with a nub that is maybe .025" - .030" higher than stock. This is enough to insure the FPB clears the FB before sear release. It also makes it mandatory to follow SIG's amended take down procedure - always decock, when removing the slide, as the slide going forward reaches what would be "in battery" position. Always install slide starting with hammer down. To do otherwise, stresses parts and causes wear.
Yes, the first one is the shape of the safety lever in my M11-A1. The longer one is what I have installed in P226's and P220's. I can see where that could potentially be a problem since there is enough clearance for the trigger bar to pass under the shorter safety lever. I have some older P229's, but haven't decided if I want to put SRT kits in them yet. This kind of information is good to know!

I read that take down procedure in one of my owner's manuals not too long ago. I was flipping through it and the SRT caught my eye. Nobody ever reads the manual do they? Haha
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Old 04-26-2017, 02:48 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by winterwar View Post
It does have the short reset trigger installed, but I didn't compare it to any others I have. I do remember it having a squared end on it, instead of being pointed and tapered. It was easy to remove the trigger bar.

All the internal parts are different color-wise in the M11-A1. Not just phosphate, but could be different materials too. I wish I had paid closer attention and took some pictures.
It sounds like you do have the original version of the SRT safety lever installed in your M11A1 which would make sense given the build date. I would seriously consider replacing it with the current version especially if you plan to use the pistol in a SD role.

With the original version, a burr can develop on the safety lever from contact with the trigger bar (especially if the slide is removed without decocking the hammer as the manual prescribes), then the trigger bar can hangup on the safety lever preventing the trigger from resetting.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:29 AM   #29
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It sounds like you do have the original version of the SRT safety lever installed in your M11A1 which would make sense given the build date. I would seriously consider replacing it with the current version especially if you plan to use the pistol in a SD role.

With the original version, a burr can develop on the safety lever from contact with the trigger bar (especially if the slide is removed without decocking the hammer as the manual prescribes), then the trigger bar can hangup on the safety lever preventing the trigger from resetting.
I think it good advice to consistently use the "new" take down procedure on all applicable SIG's - those that could have the Short Reset Kit installed, whether they do or not. Prevents wear and damage to SRT equipped guns and doesn't hurt those without.
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:29 AM   #30
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Beutiful M11 with the "fat" trigger! Nice find, congrats! I would like to have one of those triggers put in on my new 225.

Bumper, you are a treasure chest of knowledge. I'm now wondering if my German made P225 born in Nov 2016 has the newer or older design parts for its SRT. I shot my first rounds with SRT yesterday, and whoooeeee, it's sweet. The only problem is it makes me want to shoot more, faster!
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