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Tinkering with the 250 trigger...

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Old 04-28-2012, 04:02 PM   #1
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Tinkering with the 250 trigger...

I typed this once and had it dissappear to me supposedly not being logged in... I swear to God...

I think I may have found a way to reduce the distance which one needs to pull back the trigger in order to fire by roughly 22.2%, although I think it will proportionately increse the pressure required to pull the trigger.

Does anyone else wish this forum had an auto save as draft thing going on, so that when this happens you can just load last draft and viola you're right back with your term paper.

Ok, this is all hypothetical because Sig Sauer doesn't sell trigger bars, so im not gonna f*** up the one I've got trying to do this, I will get back to this when I have a plaster mold all set up and some modified triggers/bars made.

You know this frustrating s*** when you try to post something constructive/intelligent (and the fact that it doesn't happen when you spend 15 seconds on a troll post) is a source of bad forum behavior!

Anyway, not to stray any longer...

As you can see the trigger bar rests about 1/32 of an inch from the bottom of the FCU, it moves up when the slack is pulled from the trigger... oh God, this is too long... I refuse!

Ok the basic gist of it is that I plan to move the trigger bar up 1/8th of an inch then

make from a mold a new trigger with a connector piece to the trigger bar that is 1/8th of an inch longer and rotated counter clockwise to connect to this new bar. Because the trigger rotates at the same point, this will have the effect of switching to a higher gear in a bicycle, it will be harder to press (although if you have a 6.5lb trigger it will only go up to 7.22, still lighter than DAKs in their quick reset) and also not have to be pressed as far to pull the bar all the way through (much like how on a higher gear a smaller portion of the pedal's rotation is needed to cause a full rotation of the tire.

I also plan to modify the trigger bar in such a way that when fully up you immediately begin moving the hammer, instead of pulling out slack first.

When completed, I predict a ~22% reduction in the amount of trigger pull required to fire, a ~30% increse in distance the face of trigger is from the grip when the gun goes off (thank God, that's the annoying part for me, not the long pull but how much you have to close your finger, with the trigger back my hand feels in an uncomfortable position, if it went off 1/4 inch sooner my rapid fires would be so much better, even if I had to press harder.) and a ~11% increse in how much force is needed to pull the trigger.

Wish me luck, guys.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:09 PM   #2
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1.8th of an inch is the clearance from the trigger/bar at it's highest point from the top of the FCU, which the slide runs along making it unadvisable to exceed, I might be able to shave off materiel from that portion of the trigger bar and not just the top of the later sections which would allow me to push the assembly even further from the point of rotation thus allowing me to fire with even less trigger pull, but until I see the effect on pressure required to pull the trigger made by 1/8th inch I hesitate to push the limit further, but im thinking the extension of the trigger might not cause much difference at all, which would be schwiz!
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:53 PM   #3
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I wish you luck with that, and be sure to let us know how it turns out.
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