Gents: is the GG kit worth double the SIG? I understand one is machined and the other MIM, but does anyone own both and can tell a difference? Thanks.
sigb
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I believe there have been numerous threads on this same topic but it depends on your willingness to spend and your purpose.
Generally, if I have a pistol that doesn't have SRT yet, I think I'd go for GGI's assuming they have it on stock. I'll make sure to equip the GGI's SRT to the pistol I prefer to use the most too.
Aside from the tool steel construction, the finish is quite smooth, therefore an action job isn't as necessary. Additionally, the GGI sear has a more neutral engagement angle. This means that it could provide for a lighter SA pull vs a stock SIG SRT kit. This also means it's more crisp. It's also great to pair with an AC hammer as having a more positive engagement angle on a sear with a smaller SA notch like the AC hammer has means there's less contact with the two surfaces. This may cause some problems like the hammer not being catched by the sear in SA mode, aka hammer follow.
I can tell the difference. Even a worked on Sig SRT sear, polished properly but no engagement angle changes has a different feel to a GGI SRT. The GGI is just crisper. I wouldn't necessarily want to purchase the GGI SRT if I already have the SIG SRT as I can just work on the sear to get the same effect, but the added labor and effort should be still worth something. It's also not for everyone as modifying engagement angles is a gunsmithing task that can have drastic consequences if done incorrectly. That's why many recommend the use of a jig to be a necessity when doing so.
Generally, if I have a pistol that doesn't have SRT yet, I think I'd go for GGI's assuming they have it on stock. I'll make sure to equip the GGI's SRT to the pistol I prefer to use the most too.
Aside from the tool steel construction, the finish is quite smooth, therefore an action job isn't as necessary. Additionally, the GGI sear has a more neutral engagement angle. This means that it could provide for a lighter SA pull vs a stock SIG SRT kit. This also means it's more crisp. It's also great to pair with an AC hammer as having a more positive engagement angle on a sear with a smaller SA notch like the AC hammer has means there's less contact with the two surfaces. This may cause some problems like the hammer not being catched by the sear in SA mode, aka hammer follow.
I can tell the difference. Even a worked on Sig SRT sear, polished properly but no engagement angle changes has a different feel to a GGI SRT. The GGI is just crisper. I wouldn't necessarily want to purchase the GGI SRT if I already have the SIG SRT as I can just work on the sear to get the same effect, but the added labor and effort should be still worth something. It's also not for everyone as modifying engagement angles is a gunsmithing task that can have drastic consequences if done incorrectly. That's why many recommend the use of a jig to be a necessity when doing so.
I question its superiority on a carry gun that's basically stock. As BGOd42 stated for a competition piece where a lighter trigger pull may be desired, it's construction may be more precise as it's "cut" and not "molded" into shape. I've got one (GGI) installed in one of my early P229s, without any "MIM" OEM parts, and I can't say it's any "better" than the others of mine with the Sig SRT Sear. For one reason, it would be dependent on the overall fitment of the other parts involved too.
For those who want custom billet lightened Hammers, and dual adjustable Triggers, using a cut tool steel coated Sear would make sense, if they were going to have it all fitted together by a competent gunsmith, to insure squared surfaces and precise angles...
For those who want custom billet lightened Hammers, and dual adjustable Triggers, using a cut tool steel coated Sear would make sense, if they were going to have it all fitted together by a competent gunsmith, to insure squared surfaces and precise angles...
You can also go with the QRT trigger system. Robert Burke does the system. As from my research the SRT has a safety flaw (although I have never heard of anyone having issues with it). The QRT eliminates this issues, is smoother, and a slightly shorter reset and reduced take up.
I prefer the Sig system. I had issues with the Grayguns one; it didn't always want to work in double action mode. I have never had any problems with Sig parts.
For me....I wouldn't spend the money on Grayguns.
For me....I wouldn't spend the money on Grayguns.
Thanks all - Since I have 'a few' and am not building a competition gun, this makes the decision a tad easier. I only have a factory SRT in my P229 ECC, but am looking to expand. BTW - see my other gunsmithing thread - a generous forum member helped solve a DA glitch I had.
What jig set is recommended? I don't care to jury rig SA, but would like to take out any bumps in DA. Thanks - great forum!
What jig set is recommended? I don't care to jury rig SA, but would like to take out any bumps in DA. Thanks - great forum!
You need the Power Custom Series 2 Universal Stoning Fixture with the Sig P226 Adapter... Power Series II Universal Stoning Fixture [PC-GST-018] - $199.99 : GrandMasters L.L.C., Gunsmithing, Ruger 10-22, AK-47, Ruger, AR-15, Ruger Accessories, Gunsmithing Tools and Gun Accessories
Also the Hammer & Sear Fitting Block for a Sig P226... Hammer & Sear Block [PC-GST-007] - $27.99 : GrandMasters L.L.C., Gunsmithing, Ruger 10-22, AK-47, Ruger, AR-15, Ruger Accessories, Gunsmithing Tools and Gun Accessories
A set of Stones too... plus knowledge of what you are trying to do...
Also the Hammer & Sear Fitting Block for a Sig P226... Hammer & Sear Block [PC-GST-007] - $27.99 : GrandMasters L.L.C., Gunsmithing, Ruger 10-22, AK-47, Ruger, AR-15, Ruger Accessories, Gunsmithing Tools and Gun Accessories
A set of Stones too... plus knowledge of what you are trying to do...
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